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HANDLES
A
PULLS
CABINET
B
KNOBS
Est. 1987
KNOB SETS
C
LEVER SETS
CATALOG / REFERENCE #10
ENTRY SETS
D
LATCHES
E
CATCHES
F
HASPS
TABLE
G
CLIPS
BOLTS
H
CREMONES
LOCKS
I
KEY HOLES
J
STAYS
K
HINGES
L
CASTORS
M
FEET
CAPITALS
N
MOUNTS
FINIALS
O
BALLS
BED
P
FITTINGS
BRACKETS
CORNERS
Q
HOOKS
ROPE RINGS
DOOR STOPS
R
KEYS
FASTENERS
S
KNOCKERS
SPECIALTY
T
FITTINGS
Dear Customer,
Welcome to our new catalog.

At Whitechapel Ltd. we continue in our effort to elevate the quality of the items we carry. Our commitment to European and American made products is still intact. We are convinced there will always be a demand for the vast range of interesting and often idiosyncratic products that only the smaller manufacturers seem interested in making. As the years go by, we have become more confident in the validity of what we offer and we would like to reiterate the motivations that have shaped Whitechapel Ltd. over the years.

We work in a creative marketplace. Our customers are furniture makers, cabinet shops, designers, architects and homeowners. They have in common the creation of objects, whether they be jewlery boxes or houses, and aware of it or not, they make a choice from the very beginning of every project that determines the fate of their work and start iton one of two journeys. Either it will grow in beauty and character with time under the gradual in uence of both wear and care, or it will look its best the day it is finished and then deteriorate from that day forward.

Assuming an equal standard of craftsmanship, the primary decision that determines which path the work takes is the choice to use real or imitation materials and fittings. For example: the choice between solid wood and veneered panel material. Well designed and constructed cabinet work built from solid wood has the opportunity to develop personality and should with the passing of time, while its equivalent, built from particle board or MDF will, in all probability, be in a dump in 20 years.

This is relevant to us at Whitechapel Ltd. because every item of decorative or functional hadware we supply is offered in the belief that it should outlast any of us and with luck give even more pleasure to future generations than it does our own. Every fitting we sell is real, and is the best of its kind available.

In our time, we are lucky to have the combined output of many generations of craftsmanship and design to add richness to our lives. No previous generation has had this depth of resource to draw from. It would be a great shame if we added nothing to this legacy but a few extra feet of land fill. Our goal at Whitechapel Ltd. is to contribute something to this effort.


Best wishes,
Kaidi Dunstan, Owner
Scott O’brien, Manager
and the crew at Whitechapel Ltd.

GUARANTEE

While we make every effort to represent our products as accurately as possible, we understand that a photograph is only a photograph, and surprises will happen. We are ready to do whatever is necessary to make you happy. We will accept returns of any catalog item for a full refund or exchange. We do ask that the goods returned to us are packed well to avoid damage. Items damaged as a result of poor handling will be returned to sender. We reserve the right to charge a 20% restocking fee for returns of 10 items or greater within 90 days. We do not accept returns after 90 days.

SHIPPING AND HANDLING

Our goal is to ship all orders within 24 hours. You can expect to see your order about 7-10 days after it isplaced. We can ship by UPS or US Mail. Unless a preference is given, we will generally ship by UPS Third Day Service at a rate that depends on weight. Overnight, Second Day and International shipping are available at extra cost.

PAYMENT

Payment can be made by Visa, Mastercard, AmericanExpress or Discover; COD; personal or business checkand money order. Upon successful processing of acredit application, we can establish a charge accountwith strict 30-day net terms.

BACKORDERS

Backorders are an inevitable evil. We dislike them as much as you do. When they occur we do our best to ensure they cause as little disruption as possible. We ship all backorders immediately at no additional cost.

SHOP HOURS

We are open between 9:00 am and 5:00 pm, Monday through Friday, Mountain Standard Time.

CODES: The fittings in our catalog come from a wide variety of manufacturers, European and domestic. To simplify the selection of a group of products that willbe compatible in finish and manufacturing style, we have develped a system of codes. Next to each item is a code number, which indicates a manufacturer or set of manufacturers with similar methods and finishes. Though you can use these codes as a rough guide when selecting matching fittings, let your eye be the final judge. It is possible that items within a manufacturer’s range may not match, just as items from a variety of codes can match well.
COMPLETE CODES LIST FOUND ON HERE

PHONE
1-800-468-5534
FAX
1-307-739-9458
EMAIL
WEB
PAGE 3
ROSETTE HANDLES
A
Code 1
Bore 2 1/4”
Code 1
Bore 2 3/4”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 3 3/4”
Code 1
Bore 4”
PAGE 4
ROSETTE HANDLES
Code 1
Bore 2 1/4”
Code 1
Bore 2 1/2”
Code 1
Bore 3”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/2”
Code 1
Bore 4”
PAGE 5
ROSETTE HANDLES
A
Code 5
Bore 2”
Code 5
Bore 2 1/2”
Code 5
Bore 3”
Code 1
Bore 2 5/8”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 3 3/4”
PAGE 6
ROSETTE HANDLES
Code 4
Bore 2 3/4”
Code 4
Bore 3”
Code 4
Bore 3 1/2”
Code 4
Bore 4”
Code 4
Bore 4 1/4”
Code 4
Bore 4 1/2”
PAGE 7
ROSETTE HANDLES
A
Code 4
Bore 2 3/4”
Code 4
Bore 3”
Code 4
Bore 3 1/2”
Code 4
Bore 4”
Code 4
Bore 4 1/4”
Code 4
Bore 4 1/2”
PAGE 8
ROSETTE HANDLES
Code 1
Bore 2 1/2”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 3 5/8”
Code 1
Bore 4”
Code 1
Bore 2 1/2”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/2”
Code 1
Bore 4 1/4”
PAGE 9
ROSETTE HANDLES
A
Code 4
Bore 3 7/8”
Code 4
Bore 3 1/2”
Code 4
Bore 3 1/2”
Code 4
Bore 3 1/4”
ROSETTE HANDLES
PAGE 10
Code 1
Bore 2 1/2”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 3”
Code 1
Bore 2 5/8”
Code 1
Bore 2 7/8”
PAGE 11
ROSETTE HANDLES
A
Code 1
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/2”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/4”
Code 1
Bore 3 5/8”
PAGE 12
ROSETTE HANDLES
Code 4
Bore 3 1/2”
Code 4
Bore 3”
Code 4
Bore 3 3/4”
PAGE 13
ROSETTE HANDLES
A
Code 4
Bore 5”
Code 4
Bore 5”
Code 4
Bore 4 1/2”
PAGE 14
ROSETTE HANDLES
Rosette handles are suitable for a wide range of
furniture styles from the 18th century onward.
An often unappreciated advantage of the rosette
pull is the adaptability to odd borings, (the
distance between existing mounting holes).
Most can be adjusted up to 1/4” either way.
Many Code 1 rosette pulls use pressed rosettes
like the originals. These might accidentally be
crushed during installation if the bore hole is too
large a diameter. Drill these holes at 5/32”. is
will allow the squared base of the post to bare
against the wood, gripping the rosette gently
and the post rmly.
Code 4
Face mounted
PAGE 15
IRON BAIL HANDLES
A
Code 26
Rusted iron/Limoge porcelain
Bore 5”
Code 26
Rusted iron
Bore 5”
Code 26
Rusted iron
Bore 4 3/4”
Code 7
Black iron
Bore 4 1/4”
PAGE 16
FORGED IRON BAIL HANDLES
Code 6
Bore 3 1/2”
Black iron
Code 6
Bore 2 3/4”
Black iron
The bottom three handles on this page are
mounted traditionally with cotter pins.
To install, open up the wire
where it passes through the
drawer front, bend the last
3/8” back and hammer into
pilot holes drilled into the
back side of the drawer front.
Before the advent of the bolt and nut, this
type of attachment was universal for
hanging hardware and is still in common
usage in many parts of the world.
Code 19
Bore 2 1/4”
Black iron
Code 19
Bore 1 3/4”
Black iron
Code 19
Bore 2”
Black iron
IRON BAIL HANDLES
PAGE 17
A
Code 13
Bore: 3 3/4”
Code 13
Bore: 3”
LH
RH (shown)
Code 13
Code 13
Bore: 3”
Bore: 1 1/4”
Code 13
Bore: 4 3/8”
The backplates behind this handle can be rotated to any
desired orientation. We show them in this particular
arrangement for photographic purposes only.
PAGE 18
PLATE HANDLES
Code 1
Bore 1 5/8”
Code 1
Bore 2 5/8”
Code 1
Code 1
Bore 2”
Bore 2 1/4”
PAGE 19
PLATE HANDLES
A
Code 1
Bore 2 3/8”
Code 1
Bore 3”
Code 1
Bore 3”
Code 1
Bore 2 11/16”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/4”
Code 1
Bore 2 3/8”
PAGE 20
PIERCED PLATE HANDLES
Code 1
Bore 1 3/4”
Code 1
Bore 3”
Code 1
Code 1
Bore 2 1/4”
Bore 2 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 1 7/16”
Code 1
Bore 2 1/4”
PAGE 21
PIERCED AND CHASED PLATE HANDLES
A
Code 1
Bore 3 3/8”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/4”
Code 1
Bore 3”
Code 1
Bore 2 5/8”
PAGE 22
PLATE HANDLES
Code 4
Bore 3 1/4”
Code 4
Bore 2 7/16”
Code 4
Bore 2 1/4”
PAGE 23
PLATE HANDLES
A
Code 4
Bore 3”
Code 4
Bore 2 7/16”
No other reproduction hardware available can begin to compete with the convincing quality of our Code 4 fittings. Each is a clone of an original, cast using the time consuming and demanding lost wax process. No attempt has been made to “improve” upon the original either visually or functionally. You will find the quality of line and generosity of form exceeds that of modern copies. Each item is finished in a beautiful and genuine patina that can be removed with common brass polishes for a “cared for” effect. If you want your work to stand out from the crowd then consider our Code 4 range.
PAGE 24
PLATE HANDLES
The two chased handles below are supplied with brass wires as were the origionals. To install, open up the wire where it passes through the drawer front. Bend the last 3/8” and hammer into pilot holes drilled into the back side of the drawer.
Code 4
Bore 2 3/4”
Code 4
Bore 2 1/2”
Code 4
Bore 2 1/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 1/2”
Code 4
Bore 2 5/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 5/8”
PAGE 25
PIERCED PLATE HANDLES
A
Code 4
Bore 4”
All our period handles
are supplied with post
and nut mounting unless
otherwise noted. The
Code 4 items include
traditional round nuts
that are best tightened
with long-nose pliers,
while the Code 1 & 5
items come with 3/8” brass hexago-
nal nuts. In most cases the posts are
suitable for material up to 1” thick if
the nuts are counterbored.
Code 4
Bore 3 3/8”
Code 4
Bore 3”
PAGE 26
HEPPLEWHITE HANDLES
Code 1
Bore 3 1/4”
Code 1
Bore 2 3/8”
Code 1
Bore 2 11/16”
Code 1
Bore 2”
Code 1
Bore 2 3/4”
HEPPLEWHITE HANDLES
PAGE 27
A
Code 1
Bore 2 5/8”
Code 1
Code 1
Bore 2 5/16”
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 1 7/8”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 1 1/2”
PAGE 28
HEPPLEWHITE HANDLES

Oval plate & ring handles became popular towards the end of the 18th century in styles of furniture promoted by Hepplewhite in his design guide. With their classical flavor, the ring handles particularly remained popular through the Sheraton and pemire period of the early 19th century.

Most of these handles were set on an oval medallion like backplate though round, octagonal and other shapes were also produced. The backplates took advantage of the fine detail possible when thin shet is pressed between dies. Tableau of a patriotic, classical, romantic or oral nature usually decorate these handles.

The typical oval plate handle has a slender “D” shaped cast bail draped between posts at each side of the plate. The posts were either plain and round or urn shaped with a turned detail cut into their face.

Code 1
Bore 2 7/8”
Code 1
Bore 2 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 2 1/2”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 1 7/8”
PAGE 29
HEPPLEWHITE HANDLES
A
Code 1
Bore 2 3/4”
Code 1
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 1
Bore 2 1/2”
PAGE 30
HEPPLEWHITE HANDLES
Code 4
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 3/4”
Code 4
Bore 2 5/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 3/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 3/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 5/8”
PAGE 31
HEPPLEWHITE HANDLES
A
Code 4
Bore 3”
Code 4
Bore 2 1/4”
Code 4
Bore 2”
Code 4
Bore 2 3/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 3/8”
PAGE 32
HEPPLEWHITE HANDLES
Code 4
Bore 3 1/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 3/8”
Code 4
Bore 2 1/4”
PAGE 33
HEPPLEWHITE HANDLES
A
Code 1
Bore 2 3/8”
Code 1
Bore 2 3/4”
Code 1
Bore 2 3/8”
PAGE 34
ARTS AND CRAFTS HANDLES
Code 1
Bore 2 1/2”
This group of handles was inspired by the turn of the century work of the Arts and Crafts stylist Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Each piece is sand cast and hand finishd. A hinge matching this range is shown on page 230.
Code 1
Face mounted
Code 1
Face mounted
PAGE 35
ART NOUVEAU AND DECO HANDLES
A
Code 4
Face mounted
Code 4
Face mounted
Code 4
Face mounted
Code 4
Bore: 3”
Post length: 9/16”
PAGE 36
A NOTE ON POSTS

Our Code 4 brass handles use traditional cast posts and round nuts that pre-date current standards. The threads are often uneven in spacing and depth, which leads to nuts feeling either loose or tight while threading onto the post. This is not a flaw but a feature of authenticity.

For loose nuts, a slight squeeze with a pair of pliers will deform the hole of the nut just enough to secure it to the post. Tight nuts will simply require extra effort to thread on until final placement reached.

All our Code 1 handles use contemporary fasteners that most users will find straight forward. Most Code 1 handles are fixed with metric M4 threaded posts and nuts however a few handles still use 5/32” British Standard.

The post length for the majority of our handles will accommodate a 1” material thickness. We can sometimes supply longer posts but often the back of the drawer-front will need to be counterbored or “cupped” for installation on a greater thickness.

PAGE 37
ART NOUVEAU HANDLES
A
Code 1
Bore: 3 1/4”

Hardware in the Arts and Crafts style has been diffcult to find until now. The original patterns for the handles on this page 34 have recently resurfaced and been put into production.

The antique finish on our Code 1 hardware is the result of controlled oxidation. This darkened surface is highlighted to replicate the effect of use. No lacquer or other finish is applied to seal this surface so time will add to the patina. If a hand polished finish is preferred this patina can be removed with any brass polish.

Code 1
Code 1
Bore: 2 5/8”
Code 1
PAGE 38
HEPPLEWHITE RING HANDLES
No other reproduction hardware available can begin to compete with the convincing quality of our Code 4 fittings. Each is a clone of an original, cast using the time consuming and demanding lost wax process. No attempt has been made to “improve” upon the original either visually or functionally. You will find the quality of line and generosity of form exceeds that of modern copies. Each item is finished in a beautiful and genuine patina that can be removed with common brass polishes for a “cared for” effect. If you want your work to stand out from the crowd then consider our Code 4 range.
Code 4
Post length: 7/8”
Code 4
Post length: 7/8”
Code 4
Post length: 1 3/8”
Code 4
Post length: 7/8”
Code 4
Post length: 7/8”
PAGE 39
HEPPLEWHITE RING HANDLES
A
Ring handles appeared as one of the earliest forms of handle. Certainly as soon as iron could be forged, handles of this basic form were produced. The simplicity and fundamental rightness of form has meant continued popularity through all furniture styles up to present times. A ring handle has the advantages of strength, ease of use and manufacture and a low profile. At its most basic, it is nothing but a ring and a cotter (split) pin. In most cases, the ring and mount are partnered with a backplate whose functional purpose is to reinforce the wood where the mounting post passes through. The backplate also provides the opportunity for every imaginable decorative variation from the simple dise to a pharaoh’s head.
Ring handles come in a wide range of sizes to suit the smallest drawers in a desk to the largest of doors. Their low pro le makes them a good choice in tight places such as pocket doors and internal drawers. Many of the msaller sizes we cary have an overall projection of less than 3/8” and even the larger sizes are commonly no more than 5/8” deep. The “Dutch Drop” family of ring pulls were popular with period cabinetmakers. The smaller of these handles are seen on the interior drawers of 18th centuy writing desks and the larger sizes on the drawers of side tables etc. While most ring and drop handles are mounted by bolt and nut, the smaller Dutch drops are attached by integral wood screw.
Code 4
Code 4
Post length: 1 3/8”
Post length: 1 1/4”
Code 4
Cotter pin
Code 4
Post length: 1 1/8”
Code 4
Cotter pin
Code 4
Post length: 1 1/8”
PAGE 40
HEPPLEWHITE RING HANDLES
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
The three ring pulls at the top of this page are supplied with a heavy cast back plate while the three lower on the page have a stamped or pressed brass plate. While stamped production is less expensive and not as time consuming as sand casting, it remains a traditional method of production for brass furniture fittings dating to the eighteenth century. Any furniture maker concerned with period authenticity can use our oval and round plate handles with confidence regardless of the production process.
Code 1
PAGE 41
RING HANDLES
A
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 42
RING HANDLES
Code 4
Face mounted
Code 4
Face mounted
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
The symbol of the lion as "The King of Beasts" (and the consequent self-flattery implicit in man’s perceived dominion over nature) was a populare theme for the elite classes through the 18th and 19th centuries. Furniture makers and architects of the period reflected the facination with this subject and commonly embellished their work with lion heads, claw feet and other animal motifs. We carry handles, feet and castors to suit those of this inclination.
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
DUTCH DROPS AND PENDANT PULLS PAGE 43
A
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
The Code 4 drop pulls are usually mounted with a cotter pin, while the “Dutch drop” bow pulls are mounted with either a rear wood screw or threaded stud and nut.
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 44
DUTCH DROPS ETC
Code 1
Code 5
Code 5
Code 5
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 5
Code 1
Code 1
Code 5
Code 1
PAGE 45
PENDANT PULLS
A
Code 5
The brass pulls on this page are face mounted with round headed screws supplied. The iron pulls are mounted with threaded rod and nut.
Code 5
Code 5
Code 7
Rusted iron
Code 5
Code 5
Code 7
Limoge porcelain
Rusted iron
Limoge porcelain
Code 7
Rusted iron
PAGE 46
PENDANT PULLS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
All pulls on this page are mounted with threaded rod and nut.
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Polished
brass
Code 5
Code 5
Code 1
Code 1
Code 5
PAGE 47
MEXICAN PENDANT PULLS
A
Code 19
Black iron
Code 19
Black iron
Code 19

The handles on this page are mounted traditionally with cotter (split) pins. To install, ope up the wire where it passes through the drawer front, bend the last 3/8” back, and hammer into pilot holes drilled into the back side of the drawer front. Before the advent of the bolt and nut, this type of attachment was

universal for hanging hardware and is still in common usage in many parts of the world.

Black iron
Code 19
Black iron
Code 19
Black iron
Code 19
Code 19
Black iron
Black iron
PAGE 48
IRON RING HANDLES
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 19
Black iron
Code 19
Black iron
PAGE 49
HEAVY DUTY LIFTING HANDLES
A
Code 11
Code 11
Code 1
Rear mounted with pairs of
machine screws
PAGE 50
BRASS LIFTING HANDLES
Code 1
Code 1
These English cast brass lifting handles are finely hand finishd for comfort, strength and beauty. Like all our lifting handles, these can support substantial weight and stop at 90 degreees to prevent pinched fingers. We include slotted brass woodscrews of apporpriate length.
Code 1
PAGE 51
BRASS LIFTING HANDLES
A
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 52
IRON LIFTING HANDLES
Code 13
Code 13
The lifting handles on this page are extremely strong and well up to the task of supporting the heaviest loads. They are mounted with massive cotter (split) pins that require bending apart and spreading back to install. This is a somewhat daunting task that should not be attempted by the faint of heart.
PAGE 53
“T” HANDLES
A
The “T ” handles on this page are suitable for large cabinetwork and closet door type application. They match similar functional handle sets offered elsewhere in the catalog.
Code 7
The pins extending from the base of these handles keep the handle from spinning as there is just one central mounting point.
Rusted iron
Code 7
Rusted iron
Code 7
Rusted iron
PAGE 54
BRASS FIXED HANDLES
Code 1
Projection:
1 1/8”
Code 16
Projection: 1 1/8”
Code 1
Projection: 7/8”
Code 1
Projection: 1 1/4”
BRASS FIXED HANDLES
PAGE 55
Code 1
Projection: 1 1/8”
A
Bore length: 3 3/8”
Code 1
Projection: 1 1/8”
Bore length: 2 3/4”
Code 1
Projection: 1 5/16”
Code 1
Projection: 1 3/16”
Code 11
Projection: 1”
Code 1
Projection: 1 3/16”
Code 1
Projection: 1 1/8”
Code 1
Projection: 7/8”
Bore length: 2 1/8”
PAGE 56
ROCOCCO HANDLES
Code 5
Projection: 1”
Code 5
Projection: 1 1/8”
Code 4
Projection: 1 1/4”
ROCOCCO HANDLES
PAGE 57
A
These handles can be used either vertically as shown or horizontally on drawer fronts. They can be bent to conform to curved surfaces if need be. Both these and the handles on the previous page are mounted by pins from the front. For a stronger attachment the holes can be enlarged and small woodscrews substituted.
Code 5
Sold as a pair
Projection: 7/8”
Code 5
Sold as a pair
Projection: 7/8”
PAGE 58
IRON “CAB” HANDLES
Please see text on the next page for more information, and note that we sell these items by the individual piece to suit whatever use you may have.
The CAB handle was developed to provide the maximum number of adaptations possible from two simple elements without compromising aesthetics or utility. These parts can be assembled in any number of ways to become knob, handles or hooks, and suit an in nite range of borings. The flavor is equal parts contemporary, oriental, informal, decorative or plain. The design allows for a low profile without shortchanging finger clearance. If desired, bars of 3/8” diameter hardwood, acrylic or any other suitable material can be used in place of the ones ordered here.
Code W
Code W
Bar 3/8” Dia
Bar 3/8” Dia
Black iron
Black iron
1”
2”
2”
3”
3”
4”
4”
5”
5”
6”
7”
8”
9”
10”
Code W
For 3/8” Dia. bars
Block: 1” x 3/4” x 3/8”
The blocks are threaded to accept the allen set screw and rear-mounted machine screw.
Projection with bar: 11/16”
Single block, set screw and machine screw
Black iron
For 1/2” Dia. bars
Block: 1 1/4” x 1” x 1/2”
Projection with bar: 1 3/8”
Single block, set screw and machine screw
Black iron
PAGE 59
BRASS “CAB” AND ADJUSTABLE HANDLES
A
Open block Closed block
Code 1
Code 1
Finish codes
Open block for
Open block for
PB
Code 1
Code 1
3/8” Dia bars
1/2” Dia bars
PC
Closed block for
Closed block for
PN
3/8” Dia bars
1/2” Dia bars
SN
A
PRODUCT SIZE
All products are shown full
size over a 1/4” grid pattern.

The bars and blocks are sold individually to allow for the largest possible number of permutations, for example, in order to create the handle at the top of this page, you will need to order two blocks and one bar. The larger blocks with the longer bars make excellent refrigerator pulls.

To specify the finish of the bars, combine the item number with the finish code above, for instance, a 3/8” bar 4” long in Antiqued brass will become 59CABAR34A, a 1/2” bar 2” long in Satin nickel becomes 59CABAR22SN

Code 1
Code 1
3/8” Dia bar
1/2” Dia bar
To suit smaller blocks
To suit larger blocks
1”
2”
2”
4”
3”
6”
4”
8”
5”
10”
PAGE 60
BRASS FIXED HANDLES
Code 1
Projection: 1 1/4”
Bore length: 2 1/2”
Code 1
Projection: 1 1/8”
Bore length: 2”
Code 5
Projection: 1”
Code 5
Projection: 7/8”
Code 5
Projection: 5/8”
IRON FIXED HANDLES
PAGE 61
A
Code 26
Projection: 1 3/4”
Rusted iron
Code 26
Projection: 1 5/8”
Rusted iron
Code 28
Projection: 1 3/8”
Highlighted black iron
Code 28
Projection: 1 3/8”
Highlighted black iron
Code 19
Projection: 1 1/2”
Black iron
Code 7
Projection: 1”
Black iron
PAGE 62
IRON FIXED HANDLES
Code 26
Rusted iron
Projection: 1 3/8”
Bore: 5 1/2”
Bore: 4 1/2”
Code 26
Rusted iron
Bore: 4 3/8”
Projection: 1 5/8”
Bore: 3 1/2”
Projection: 1 1/2”
Bore: 3”
Projection: 1”
Code 26
Rusted iron
Projection: 1 1/8”
Bore: 1 7/8”
PAGE 63
IRON FIXED HANDLES
A
Code 7
Black iron
Projection: 1 1/4”
Twisted
Straight
Code 26
Rusted iron
Projection: 1 3/8”
Twisted
Straight
Code 26
Rusted iron
Projection large: 1/2”
Twisted large
Straight large
Projection small: 1 1/4”
Twisted small
Straight small
Code 26
Rusted iron
Projection large: 1 5/8”
Twisted large
Straight large
Projection small: 1 3/8”
Twisted small
Straight small
PAGE 64
HAND FORGED IRON HANDLES
Code 7
Black iron
Projection: 1 1/4”
Code 7
Black iron
Projection: 1”
Code 6
Black iron
Projection: 1 1/8”
Code 6
Black iron
Projection: 1 1/8”
Code 6
Black iron
Projection: 1 5/8”
Code 6
Code 6
Code 6
Black iron
Black iron
Black iron
Projection: 1 5/8”
Projection: 1 1/2”
Projection: 1 1/2”
PAGE 65
CAST IRON FIXED HANDLES
A
Code 7
Projection: 1 1/8”
Black iron
Code 7
Projection: 1 1/4”
Black iron
Code 7
Projection: 1 3/8”
Black iron
Code 7
Projection: 1 1/2”
Code 7
Black iron
Projection: 1 3/4”
Black iron
PAGE 66
FORGED IRON HANDLES
These handles are sold individually.
Code 6
Black iron
Projection: 2 1/8”
Code 6
Black iron
Projection: 2 1/2”
IRON FIXED HANDLES
PAGE 67
A
Code 13
Code 13
Bore: 5”
Bore: 3 1/2”
Patinated Iron
Patinated Iron
Code 13
Code 13
Bore: 10”
Patinated Iron
Bore: 18”
Patinated Iron
PAGE 68
LARGE IRON FIXED HANDLES
Large fixed handles have become popular in recent years on custom refridgerator doors. Any of those shown on this and the preceeding page are scaled to suit this application and can be matched to cabinet fittings shown elsewhere in the catalog.
Code 26
Face mounted
Rusted iron
Projection: 2 3/8”
Code 28
Rear mounted
Projection: 2 7/8”
Highlighted black iron
PAGE 69
BAKES FIXED HANDLES
A
Our English made Bakes handles are perfectly suited for kitchens; from large appliances to small cupboard drawers, the bakes handles offer a solid heft while maintaining a sleek and elegant design. Available in three sizes. Rear fixing with supplied fasteners.
Code 1
Length: 14 3/4”
Projection: 2”
Polished Nickel
Code 1
Code 1
Length: 9 7/16”
Length: 6 1/16”
Projection: 1 9/16”
Projection: 1 1/16”
Polished Nickel
Polished Nickel
PAGE 70
TRAY HANDLES
Code 1
This handle can be undermounted or screwed to the inside of the tray rim.
Code 1
This handle stands vertically and hooks over the edge of the tray rim. The threaded rods pass through the tray surface. The nuts are counterbored into the tray underside.
Trays make excellent projects for beginner and experienced woodworkers alike.
18th and 19th century trays often display sophisticated marquetry and carving, and provide an opportunity to develop techniques with the minimum of material investemnt.
Code 1
This handle mounts to the outside of the tray rim.
PAGE 71
RECESSED FINGER PULLS
A
Code 7
Code 1
Black iron
Code 1
Polished bronze
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
PAGE 72
FLUSH LIFTING HANDLES
Code 11
Thickness: 3/4”
These American-made solid sand cast brass
handles are extremely strong and heavy.
Code 11
Thickness: 1/2”
PAGE 73
FLUSH CABINET HANDLES
A
Code 11
While the flush handles on this page are intended as drawer pulls, they are strong enough to lift small chests and boxes. Because none of these handles are thicker than 3/8”, they will fit comfortably in 3/4” material.
Code 11
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 74
FLUSH CABINET HANDLES
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
These flush handles are made from heavy hot forged brass parts. They are both strong and consistent, and, as with most of our flush hardware, they will fit easily into 3/4” thick material.
While most of our flush hardware should be mortised even with the surrounding surface, these handles have slightly beveled edges and should be mortised to a depth that exposes the bevel. The beveled edge also allows the handles to be surface mounted, requiring only a rough mortise be cut to accomodate the finger cup.
Code 1
PAGE 76
FLUSH EDGE PULLS
This beautifully made American flush pull releases with a satisfying thunk and returns shut with a gentle push and solid click. The face is 7/8” wide and 4 1/2” tall. The mortise depth is 3 3/8”.
This edge pull is lightly sprung to return to flush.
A slight lift will overbalence this handle and return it to flush.
Code 11
Code 1
Code 1
Width 13/16”
Width: 1”
PAGE 77
BIN AND DRAWER HANDLES
A
Code 1
Projection: 7/8”
Code 1
Projection: 1”
Code 1
Projection: 11/16”
Code 11
Projection: 3/4”
Code 11
Projection: 7/8”
PAGE 78
BIN AND DRAWER HANDLES
Code 1
Projection: 1”
Code 1
Projection: 3/4”
Code 1
Projection: 3/4”
Code 1
This handle is pressed brass. Though not heavy, it is nicely proportioned and has a comfortable rolled edge.
Projection: 7/8”
Code 7
Projection: 3/4”
Black iron
Code 13
Projection: 7/8”
PAGE 79
CARD FRAMES AND PULLS
A
Code 1
Projection: 1”
Card size: 3 1/8” x 1 1/2”
Code 1
Card size:2 3/8” x 1 5/8”
Code 1 Projection: 3/4”
Card size: 1 7/8” x 1 1/8”
Code 1
Card size: 3 3/4” x 1 7/8”
Code 1
Projection: 3/4”
Card size: 1 3/4” x 3/4”
EUROPEAN IRON CABINET FITTINGS
PAGE 80
The items on this page are a small selection of the many possiblities that can be realized by combining the rings, knobs and backplates on the following several pages. Many backplates can also be supplied as keyhole escutcheons.
PAGE 81
EUROPEAN IRON KNOBS AND RINGS
A
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
These knobs and rings can be combined with any of the backplates shown on the next ten pages. Examples can be seen on page 80.
Rings are supplied with a suitable nut and knobs are supplied with machine screw.
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
PAGE 82
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
LH
LH (shown)
LH (shown)
With hole
With hole
With hole
With keyhole
With keyhole
With keyhole
RH (shown)
RH
RH
With hole
With hole
With hole
With keyhole
With keyhole
With keyhole
PAGE 83
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
A
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
PAGE 84
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
Code 13
LH (shown)
Code 13
With keyhole
With hole
LH
LH (shown)
With hole
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
RH
With keyhole
With hole
RH (shown)
RH
With hole
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
With keyhole
PAGE 85
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
A
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
LH (shown)
With hole
Code 13
With vertical keyhole
LH (shown)
Code 13
With hole
Code 13
With horizontal keyhole
LH (shown)
With keyhole
With hole
With hole
RH
With hole
RH
With vertical keyhole
With keyhole
With hole
With vertical keyhole
With horizontal
RH
With keyhole
keyhole
With hole
With horizontal keyhole
With keyhole
PAGE 86
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
>
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
LH
Code 13
With hole
LH (shown)
With vertical keyhole
Code 13
With hole
With horizontal keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
RH (shown)
With keyhole
RH
With hole
With hole
Code 13
With vertical keyhole
With keyhole
With hole
With horizontal keyhole
Code 13
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
PAGE 87
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
A
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
With hole
With hole
With keyhole
With keyhole
With keyhole
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
Code 13
With keyhole
With hole
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
With keyhole
PAGE 88
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
With hole
With hole
With keyhole
With keyhole
With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
Code 13
Code 13
With keyhole
With hole
With hole
With keyhole
With keyhole
PAGE 89
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
A
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
With hole
Code 13
Code 13
With keyhole
With keyhole
With hole
With hole
Code 13
With keyhole
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
Code 13
With hole
With hole
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
With keyhole
With keyhole
PAGE 90
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
With hole
Code 13
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
Code 13
Code 13
With keyhole
With hole
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
With keyhole
With hole
With keyhole
PAGE 91
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
B
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
Code 13
RH (shown) With hole
With hole
RH With keyhole
LH With hole
With keyhole
LH With keyhole
Code 13
With hole
With keyhole
Code 13
Code 13
With hole
With hole
With keyhole
With horizontal keyhole
With vertical keyhole
PAGE 92
EUROPEAN IRON BACKPLATES
These backplates can be mated to any of the knobs and rings on page 81. Example combinations can be seen on page 80.
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
PAGE 93
EUROPEAN IRON AND PORCLAIN KNOBS
B
Code 7
Code 7
Code 7
Code 13
Knob
Rose
Code 26
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
White porcelain
White porcelain
White porcelain
White porcelain
White porcelain
White porcelain
PAGE 94
EUROPEAN IRON KNOBS
Code 7
Code 7
Code 7
Black iron
Black iron
Black iron
Code 28
Code 28
Highlighted black iron
Highlighted black iron
Code 28
Code 28
Highlighted black iron
Highlighted black iron
PAGE 95
EUROPEAN IRON KNOBS
B
Code 26
Code 26
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Code 26
Code 26
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Code 26
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
PAGE 96
BRASS CABINET KNOBS
All knobs on this page are American made and solid brass. These knobs attach from behind with 1” long 8-32 machine screws. Longer screws are available at any hardware store.
Code 16
Code 16
Code 16
Code 16
Code 16
Code 16
Code 16
Code 16
PAGE 98
BRASS CABINET KNOBS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 5
Code 5
Code 5
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Antiqued
Antiqued
Antiqued
Code 5
Code 5
Code 5
Code 5
PAGE 99
BRASS CABINET KNOBS
B
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
All these knobs are authentically manufactured. They combine a cast brass body and a pressed brass face. This technology allows for a finer level of detail than would be possible with sand casting, while retaining most of the solidity of a cast knob. The size larger knobs are mounted by machine screw, while the smaller sizes have a non-removable integral woodscrew.
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 100
BRASS CABINET KNOBS
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
No other reproduction hardware available can begin to compete with the convincing quality of our Code 4 fittings. Each is a clone of an original cast by the time consuming and demanding lost wax process. No attempt has been made to “improve” upon the original either visually or functionally. In almost all cases you will find the quality of line and generosity of form exceeds that of modern copies. Each item is finished in a beautiful and genuine patina that can be removed with common brass polish for a “cared for” effect. If you would like your work to stand out from the crowd, then consider our Code 4 range.
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 101
KNOBS

GENERAL

The history of the knob is woven through the history of furniture. Every age found application for this simple fitting. Despite their apparent utility, knobs are somewhat less common in earlier periods than later. This may be explained by their fundamental vulnerability. Rugged durability is the mark of medieval and Jacobean furniture. The need for furniture to survive rough treatment and travel would discourage the use of fixed projections. Many handles seen on early furniture took the form of drops or rings that project very little, or were simply keys. Later we find the knob gaining more general favor.

The knob played a restricted role during the 18th century periods of formal furniture making. If they are to be found at all, it will be on small doors and drawers inside desks. These little brass knobs were usually cast, hand finished and attached with a simple hand cut integral woodscrew. Only at the beginning of the 19th century does the knob become an acceptable exposed fitting on fine furniture. Hepplewhite and Sheraton introduced large decorated face brass knobs in their late 18th and 19th century designs. The technology of the time allowed fine detail to be pressed into thin brass sheet. These faces were then spun onto a heavier body of solid brass. Time has taken its toll on these knobs. They damaged easily and, as fashions changed, most were replaced with more popular bail type handles. Turned wood knobs were popular with the Shakers and others of minimalist persuasion and throughout the 19th century the bulk of country furniture styles employed wooden knobs.

USE

We stock knobs in wood, brass and iron that range in size from 5/16” diameter all the way up to the 2 1/2” diameter. Most are fixed and some operate latches. We stock knobs that attach by integral woodscrew, woodscrew from behind, glued tenon, machine screw, bolt and nut. Some knobs come with round backplates to protect the cabinet work from ngernail attack, others come with decorative escutcheons and many stand alone without any kind of backplate. Most questions regarding knobs fall into the related topics of size, quantity and positioning. Knobs, more than any other fitting, bear physical resemblance to body parts, notably eyes and noses, their size and placing on a piece of furniture can have some rather unfortunate effects if not well considered.

SIZE

No firm rules govern the choice of knob size. The Shakers rarely used knobs bigger than 1 1/4” diameter on even the largest casework. Other less severe furniture of the same period was commonly out fitted with more comfortable and larger mushroom or bun-shaped knobs. The Sheraton styles of the early 19th century popularized large decorative brass knobs, few of which survived the ravages of use and the changes of taste. By far the most common application for knobs in our day is on built-in cabinetwork. Kitchens have become such an important part of the modern domestic life that a great deal of e ort and expense goes into their creation. Even a moderate kitchen can consume fty or more knobs. If the knob is wrong, it will have ample opportunity to repeat its mistake. Unless your cabinetwork is truly massive you will probably select a knob between 1” and 1 1/2” diameter for your cabinet doors. If you are using knobs on the drawers, make sure they are the same size or bigger than the door knobs. The typical cabinet knob we sell is 1 1/4” diameter. Because wood knobs have less visual mass than metal ones, you will generally want to use a wood knob one size larger than the equivalent metal knob.

QUANTITY

Quantity only becomes an issue on drawers. Smaller drawers need one knob and larger drawers two, but deciding where the dividing line between small and large is drawn takes thought. An 18” drawer can accommodate either a single knob or two smaller knobs. Any wider and a drawer will feel more comfortable with two knobs and any smaller drawer will only need one. A wide drawer with a single knob is prone to rack when opened, and a drawer fitted with two knobs may rack if only one knob is used to open the drawer.

POSITIONING

The placing of knobs is crucial to the overall integration of your cabinetwork. When placed with care a knob should blend into its context. Poorly placed knobs act as a visual stumbling blocks to the balance of otherwise well proportioned cabinetwork. If most cabinetwork was on the cutting edge of contemporary design, there would be little point in making blanket rules on knob placement, but the truth is that the vast bulk of new cabinetwork is very traditional in design and seeks to evoke times past. The modern obsession with convenience can lead designers and homeowners to sacrifice all the time and effort they have expended on solid hardwoods, raised panels and custom finishes, and then scatter knobs in the most non-traditional places. Here are a few thoughts that might help.

Never place a knob in the corner of a door. Imagine the door length divided into four quarters and try to keep the knob in the middle two. It does nobody any harm to stretch up or down a little. Avoid placing knobs on raised panels. This cannot always be avoided, particular- ly when the cabinetmaker has seen fit to produce raised panel drawer fronts. A knob should always be positioned a little above center on a drawer front. A centered knob will always appear below center when seen from above. If a drawer is wide enough to need two knobs, as a rule of thumb, they should be set about 1/6 of the drawer length from each end. Take this as a starting point, not a strict rule.

MOUNTING

Wooden knobs are attached either by a woodscrew from behind or, if provided with a tenon, they are glued in place. Woodscrew attachment is the most popular method though not as secure as glued tenon. Because of wood shrinkage a woodscrew will eventually loosen, and given the human capacity of procrastina- tion, the knob will loosen further over the course of years until one day it will come o in the hands of an unsuspecting visitor. The glued tenon will survive longer but, unless they are sawn or broken, commits the user to his choice of o knob. Metal knobs can be attached either with machine screws from behind or with integral woodscrews. Most cabinet knobs come with a machine screw suitable for 3/4” thick material. If your wood is thicker, it is usually up to you to find suitable longer screws. American made knobs are commonly threaded for 8-32 screws which can easily be found in your local hardware store. Manufacturers of European knobs seem to take pleasure in frustrating customers wherever possible with a wide range of threads from 2mm metric to 1/4” Whitworth. We try our best to supply a suitable screw for your needs. Often, the best solution to an installation problem will be to use ‘Hanger Screws’. These screws look like a machine screw on one end and a wood screw on the other. They are screwed into the back of the knob and the knob is simply screwed into a pilot hole in the wood. This is certainly as secure as any other mounting in hardwoods, but might not hold up against abuse on pine or other softwoods. We can supply hanger screws upon request with most of our knobs. Some of our European knobs come with a long steel bolt and a nut. To install these requires cutting the thread to the appropriate length. I don’t envy anyone installing a kitchen’s worth of these and would refer back to the last paragraph. If these are to be used as supplied, the process is as follows. Locate knob position, then create a counter-bore with a suitable size Forstner bit on the backside to accommodate the nut. Drill the bolt hole and with the bolt not quite fully threaded into the knob, insert the knob into place. Mark the bolt flush with the back surface of the wood. Remove the knob and thread the nut onto the bolt past this point. Now cut the bolt to length. File the bolt end to remove damage and unscrew the nut to repair the threads. Install the knob. While you could possibly avoid the counter-bore on kitchen work, on furniture it should not be ignored.

Too Narrow
Too Wide
Correct
PAGE 102
BRASS CABINET KNOBS
All the knobs on this page are mounted by woodscrew. In the case of Code 4 products, the woodscrew is cast in brass as part of the knob, while the Code 1 knobs have a force-fit steel screw.
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 103
WOOD CABINET KNOBS
The wood screw mounted knobs below are drilled to a depth of 3/4” and accept a common #8 woodscrew. We do not include screws with these knobs.
B
Code 10
Birch
Code 9
Code 9
Walnut
Walnut
Cherry
Cherry
Oak
Oak
Maple
Maple
Code 10
Maple
Code 10
Maple
Code 9
Code 9
Walnut
Walnut
Cherry
Cherry
Oak
Oak
Maple
Maple
Code 10
Maple
Code 10
Maple
Code 9
Code 9
Walnut
Walnut
Cherry
Cherry
Oak
Oak
Maple
Maple
Code 10
Maple
PAGE 104
WOOD CABINET KNOBS
Code 9
Walnut
Cherry
Code 9
Oak
Code 9
Pine
Maple
Pine
Pine
Mahogany
Code 9
Walnut
Cherry
Code 10
Code 10
Code 10
Oak
Maple
Maple
Maple
Maple
Pine
Mahogany
Code 9
Walnut
Cherry
Oak
Maple
Pine
Mahogany
Code 9
Code 9
Walnut
Walnut
Cherry
Cherry
Oak
Oak
Maple
Maple
Code 9
Walnut
The wood screw mounted knobs on this page are drilled to a depth of about 3/4” and accept a common #8 or #10 woodscrew. We do not include screws with these knobs.
Cherry
Oak
Maple
Pine
Mahogany
PAGE 105
WOOD CABINET KNOBS
The six wood screw mounted knobs on the left of this page are drilled to a depth of 3/4” and accept a common #8 woodscrew. We do not include screws with these knobs. The two knobs on the right are supplied with screws.
B
Code 9
Code 9
Code 9
Walnut
Walnut
Maple
Cherry
Cherry
Oak
Oak
Maple
Maple
Code 9
Maple
Code 9
Walnut
Code 9
Cherry
Walnut
Oak
Cherry
Maple
Oak
Maple
Code 9
Walnut
Code 9
Cherry
Walnut
Oak
Cherry
Maple
Oak
Maple
Code 9
Maple
Code 9
Walnut
Cherry
Oak
Maple
PAGE 106
MAGPIE HANDLES
These handles are handmade in a local Wilson, WY furniture shop.
Code 8
Projection: 3/4”
Walnut
Maple
Cherry
Code 8
Projection: 1 1/16”
Walnut
Maple
Cherry
Code 8
Projection: 1 1/4”
Walnut
Maple
Cherry
PAGE 107
DOOR KNOB SETS
C
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
2 1/4” Dia
2” Dia
PAGE 108
DOOR KNOB SETS
Code 1
Code 1
2 1/4” Dia
2” Dia
The door knob sets on this and the previous page are traditional English designs. The shapes and proportions are refined in a way quite unlike the amorphous styles we are used to in the US. Our knob sets are made in England of solid sand cast and forged brass. Each casting is trimmed, turned and refined by hand before an extensive polishing process. The human touch leaves a very subtle, but nevertheless satisfying surface modulation that the best machine made products cannot match.
The choice between the larger 2 1/4” diameter knobs and the smaller 2” size should be decided on the basis of architectural scale and style. In use, both sizes will prove satisfactory though the larger diameter will add some mechanical advantage and so may be the better choice in a house with elderly or arthritic occupants. For maximum grip, the oval knobs are recommended, these will not slip in the hand and are particularly comfortable. The knob sets are supplied with an 8mm spindle that suits the latches we sell. We can provide either standard high grade American style tubular latches or typical English mortise latches. Most carpenters will prefer the tubular latches. In bathrooms and other situations where a locking function is required, we can supply matching thumbturn door bolts. We have found these a more reliable and attractive choice than an integral button on the knob set. These thumbturns are supplied either with or without an outside safety release. Our knob sets are supplied with roses of a size that matches the knob. These will not work on pre-drilled doors. The standard 2 1/8” cross bore is too big and if it doesnt swallow the rose whole, it certainly leaves no wood to fasten to.
Code 1
Polished bronze
PAGE 109
RIM HARDWARE KNOB SETS
C
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
These knobs are examples of the interior portion of our rim hardware knob sets.The rose on the exterior portion is larger and an example can be seen on 107ARC2 (bottom right of page 107). These sets are available only in polished brass. The sets are matches for the rim lock on page 165 and 166.
PAGE 110
DOOR SETS
Code 4
Code 4
These completely authentic English antique reproductions are unique and perfectly usable with modern or traditional latches. Like all of our Code 4 items, the parts are lost wax cast directly from originals. We can supply either modern or traditional latches to suit. They are supplied with a 7mm spindle.
This English brass lever set is graceful and comfortable. The lever is mounted to the rose and internally sprung to assure years of sag and rattle free use.
The 2 1/2” diameter rose allows their use on pre-drilled doors with the common 2 1/8” cross-bore. The internal springing eliminates the need for a heavily sprung latch so these levers should be partnered with latches sprung for knobs.
This lever is supplied with a 8mm spindle that suits the latches we sell.
Code 1
PAGE 111
DOOR SETS
The levers on this page are a new range made in the US by the manufacturer of our cabinet and architectural hinges. The same unmatched standard of design, machining and finishing that makes our hinges the best available also applies to these door fittings. Each design achieves an uncommon balance between comfort, utility and elegance. Every effort has been made to ensure ease of installation and long reliable service.
We stock these items in the finishes indicated, but can special order any number of less common finishes like silver plate.
These levers are supplied with a 7mm spindle.
Please anticipate an 8 week lead time for anything more than small quantities of these items.
C
Code 11
Code 11
PAGE 113
DOOR SETS
These door knobs are wrought brass and intended to partner the plates on the next page. They can be used with the latch shown on this page or any other tubular latch with a 9/32” hub. The pattern is authentic Americana and has a reliable functionality that is hard to improve upon.
Unlike the vast bulk of old American designs, this one is still made in the US rather than in China. We can supply the latches in passage or privacy function.
C
Code 11
2 1/4” Dia
Code 11
Passage function
Privacy function
PAGE 114
DOOR PLATES AND ROSES
These plates and roses are sold per pair and match the knobs and latches on page 113. Please anticipate a 6 week lead time for any more than a small order.
Code 11
Size: 2 1/4” x 7”
Passage function
Privacy function
Code 11
2 1/4” Dia.
Code 11
PAGE 115
IRON AND PORCLAIN DOOR SETS
These three French made door sets are provided with 7mm spindles and 8mm adapter sleeves for compatibility with our latches. The knobs rotate on integral roses for smooth and rattle free use, while the spindle is free floating. The pair of crossbolts supplied can clamp the roses across most of the door thickness. The porcelain knobs are from Limoges.
These designs and finishes match cabinet hardware offered throughout the catalog.
C
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
White porcelain
White porcelain
Code 26
Rusted iron
PAGE 116
IRON DOOR KNOB SETS
Code 7
Code 7
Black iron
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Code 7
Black iron
Black iron

Our iron door knob sets are sand cast then hand finished and heat treated with a final application of beeswax for protection. These sets look centuries old when new and will only become more beautiful with time and use.

As with our other knob sets, these are sold as a pair to suit a single door. We can supply either American specification tubular latches of 2 3/8” or 2 3/4” backset, or the traditional English types with more backset options.

The knobs on this page are mounted to (and free to rotate on) their roses, they are linked with a floating 8mm spindle that is cut to

length to suit the door thickness. This type of mounting results in a smooth, rattle free installation. Because the roses are screw-mounted and scaled to suit the knobs, none of these sets will work directly on pre-drilled doors with a 2 1/8” cross-bore. The roses on some of these sets may at least cover the bore, but to use these on pre drilled doors would require plugging the cross-bore.

If a privacy function is required, we recommend a separate iron door bolt or hook and eye, both of which can be found elsewhere in the catalog.

PAGE 117
IRON DOOR KNOB SETS
These English iron door sets are provided with 8mm spindles for compatibility with our latches. The knobs are separate from their roses and are an economical and easy to install alternative to those on page 116. As with those knobs, these cannot be installed on pre-drilled doors without first plugging the 2 1/8” cross-bore.
All our knob sets are sold as a pair to suit a single door.
C
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 118
IRON DOOR LEVER SETS
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Our iron door lever sets are sand cast then hand finished and heat treated with a final application of beeswax for protection. These sets look centuries old when new and will only become more beautiful with time and use. As with our other door sets, these are sold as a pair to suit a single door. We can supply either American specification tubular latches of 2 3/8” or 2 3/4” backset or the traditional English types with more backset options. The levers on this page and page 119 are mounted on their roses and are sprung, which means they will never sag. They are linked with a floating 8mm spindle that is cut to length to suit the door thickness. As they are self sprung, you should partner them with knob strength latches. Because the roses are screw mounted and scaled to suit the levers, none of these sets will work directly on pre-drilled doors with a 2 1/8” cross-bore. The roses on some of these sets may at least cover, but to use these on pre-drilled doors would require first plugging the cross-bore. If a privacy function is required, we recommend a separate iron door bolt or hook and eye, both of which can be found elsewhere in this catalog.
IRON DOOR LEVER AND RING SETS
PAGE 119
C
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
These English iron door sets are provided with 8mm spindles for compatibility with our latches. The rings and lever are mounted to their roses (see page 116 for more information), and the lever is self-sprung.
All our door sets are sold as a pair to suit a single door.
PAGE 120
IRON DOOR LEVER SETS
Code 13
Code 13
Our French iron levers are unmatched for authentic character. These hand made items are fully functional and comfortable in use. They can be paired with the escutcheon plates on the following two pages. As with all our architectural door sets, these levers are supplied as a door pair with a suitable 8mm spindle. Because some of these levers are quite heavy and not sprung, we recommend our heavy duty English mortise latches for sag-free use. To further enhance their authentic flavor, these levers can be partnered with the iron-rim locks shown on page 167. These excellent quality locksets have a smooth solid action and are highly recommended for interior applications. For entry application, we can supply escutcheons cut for skeleton key to suit our English mortise entry locksets or with Eurocylinder cutout for modern keyed security.
Code 13
Patinated iron with
Brass pommel
Code 13
LEVER ESCUTCHEONS
PAGE 121
Code 13
Passage
Skeleton key
Euro 51mm
Code 13
RH
Code 13
These Escutcheon plates can be partnered with the levers on page 120. They are available in three functions. Passage function has no keyhole, Skeleton key function suits our iron rim lock and English skeleton keyed mortise lockset and Euro 51mm suits our English Eurocylinder mortise lockset.
Passage
Skeleton key
Passage
Euro 51mm
LH (Shown)
Skeleton key
Passage
Skeleton key
Euro 51mm
Euro 51mm
PAGE 122
LEVER ESCUTCHEONS
These escutcheons can be partnered with the levers on page 120.
Please note that these escutcheons are sold individually.
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
PAGE 123
IRON DOOR LEVERS
C
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
These door levers are provided with 8mm spindles for compatibility with our European and domestic latches. They are unsprung, and need to be partnered with lever strength latches.
All our door sets are sold as a pair to suit a single door.
Code 26
Rusted iron
PAGE 124
BRASS RING HANDLES
Though these flush handles were designed for the doors of squash courts, they might just as well be used anywhere an uninterrupted surface is desired. These are sold individually and come supplied with an 8mm spindle to suit our American or English door latches. The opposing side of the same door can be fitted with either a regular knob from the preceding pages or another ring from this page.
Code 1
Code 1
For mortise latch
For rim latch
These 18th century style ring handles are quite functional and will lend a period flavor to any interior.
These are sold as door sets either for use with a conventional mortise latch or to suit one of our brass rim locks, in which case the large rose shown here is paired with a much smaller one that bears against the lockset.
Code 1
This flush ring handle is easier to grasp than the one above, and while it may not be as practical inside a squash court, will probably be more useful elsewhere. Like that item, it is sold individually and comes with an 8mm spindle.
PAGE 125
IRON ENTRY SETS
Code 6
Black Iron
Code 6
Black Iron
Reversable mortise
lockset with
egress function
Black iron
2 1/2” backset
2 3/4”
3 1/2”
Lockset cylinder with
Schlage “C” keyway
Black iron
1”
1 1/8”
1 1/4”
This entry set combines an authentic hand forged handle with the modern high security lockset. We sell the individual pieces seperately so you can create a set that best suits your application. To order a complete set you will need to order one of each of the following items.
Door handle 125RP63 or 125RP65 (see page 126 for sizing)
Door Knob 125REK7 or 125REK9 (see page 116, 116REK7 or 116REK9 for sizing) Mortise lockset (pick from 2 ½”, 2 ¾”, or 3 ½”)
Cylinder (pick the length closest to half door thickness plus 1/8” Keyhole cover included handle. Thumb turn included with knob.

To create the example shown above with a 2 ¾” backset on a 2 ¼” thick door you would place the following order:

1 of 125RP63
1 of 125REK9
1 of 125ES2
1 of 125CL3
PAGE 126
IRON THUMBLATCH SET
Complete traditional
thumblatch set
comprising all parts
shown (see page 128
for details)
Handle only, without
Code 6
nger pull extension. For
Black iron
locksets on page 125.
Code 6
Black iron
IRON THUMBLATCH SET
PAGE 127
PRODUCT SIZE
All products are shown full
size over a 1/4” grid pattern.
C
Complete traditional
thumblatch set comprising
all parts shown (see page
128 for details).
Code 6
Black iron
Bean style (main image)
Spade style
(detail shown at
left at reduced scale)
PAGE 128
IRON THUMBLATCH SET
Full Traditional
Thumblatch Set
Our traditional thumblatch sets have centuries of history to recommend their use even on new construction. A couple of considerations will need to be taken into account before committing yourself to this style of door hardware.
First: For the latch to function, the door must be set flush with the surrounding trimwork, at least to the extent that will allow the strike and arm clearance to operate. Second: The handle always mount ed to the outside of an in-swinging door. This means the occupants of a room will see the sketched view on the right, while those entering will see the handle.
Complete traditional thumblatch set comprising all parts shown
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 129
This page shows an example of an installation of the thumblatch sets offered on pages 126 through 128.
PAGE 130
A NOTE ON DOOR HARDWARE
All of our knob and lever sets come supplied with a square stock through spindle that is sufficient in length to accommodate a 2 ½” thick door. We do stock longer spindles and can provide these at no additional cost if requested at the time of your initial order.
None of our door hardware is intended for pre-bored doors and very few knobs can be successfully installed over a 2 1/8” through bore without the door being plugged.
The knob sets on pages 107 and 108 and levers on page 110 can be special ordered with larger roses to accommodate pre-bore doors. Please allow for 4-6 week delivery.
Compatible passage latches, all with reversible handing, are found on pages 162 and 163 of our catalog. In some cases, a conversion sleeve will be required for a 7mm spindle to work with an 8mm latch hub. We are happy to provide these free of charge.
We offer simple mortise locksets for doors on page 163. These are intended for lever function only (one-way hub rotation and heavy spring). However, many customers have paired these locksets with oval knobs as the shape of the knob provides a secure grip and greater leverage than a round counter part. The majority of our door hardware is compatible with Baton and Baldwin entry mortise locksets. We can supply split and half spindles at an additional charge for all of our knob and lever sets. Please let us know if you have any questions regarding spindle/hub orientation.
Privacy bolts are available as separate items on page 151 in brass, plated brass and black iron finishes. Unfortunately, we cannot supply privacy bolts in our Code 13 (patinated iron finish), but do have an offering of simple surface mounted slide bolts on pages 160 and 161 that might used to secure a door.
Dead bolts with an interior thumb turn and keyed exterior function are on page 163. These can be ordered as “keyed alike” at an additional cost of $5 per dead bolt, if more than one deadbolt is required for the same residence.
If you cannot locate the door hardware you are looking for in this catalog please call us for assistance. We often have accessory items on-hand or we might be able to special order items for any number of applications.
PAGE 131
IRON RIM LOCKS
Shown on this page are examples of options available by combining the rim locks on page 167 with the levers available on page 120.
PAGE 132
SCREEN DOOR LATCH SETS
Our American screen door latches are the nest available. Being built entirely of brass, they will withstand corrosive atmospheric conditions far longer than other brands that commonly use zinc and steel parts.
The rim latch above is surface mounted to the inside of the door, while the latch below is fully mortised. Both latches are supplied with a low pro le lever for the inside and a knob for the outside.
Code 11
Code 11
PAGE 133
SCREEN DOOR LATCH
D
Code 11
PAGE 134
IRON DOOR LATCHES
Code 7
Black iron
The above latch will work for both left and right handle applications. Included is a 119REK10 (page 119) handle and 8mm spindle for the opposing side of the door if that function is required.
Code 7
This latch set is supplied with a 119REK4 (page 119) handle and spindle for the opposing side of the door if that function is required.
Black iron
Right hand
Left hand (shown)
PAGE 135
IRON DOOR LATCHES
Code 7
Black iron
D
When swung into the active position, the latch below will allow a door to open a few inches, but no further. Set in the inactive position, it will not interfere in any way with normal opening and closing.
Code 7
Black iron
The latch below is designed for use on the outswinging door of a closet or pantry. Because it is functionally similar to our thumblatches, the diagram and explanation on page 128 can be used as a reference. The pin projecting from the backside of the arm allows the catch to be released from inside. This pin may be cut o if the latch will not be used in a walk-in application.
Code 6
Black iron
PAGE 136
IRON SHUTTER FASTENERS
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 7
Black iron
These shutter fasteners are mounted to a 4” long spike that can be driven into wood or set in masonry.
Right hand
Left hand (shown)
PAGE 137
IRON CASEMENT FASTENERS
Code 7
Black iron
With mortise plate
D
With hook plate
Code 7
Black iron
With mortise plate
With hook plate
Code 7
Black iron
With mortise plate
With hook plate
PAGE 138
CASEMENT FASTENERS
The traditional English casement catches on this page can be used on either left or right swinging windows. The scale of the handles provides a comfortable hand hold for pulling a window closed. The choice of mortise or hook strike will depend on how your window is framed and if single or paired.
Code 7
Black iron
With mortise plate
With hook plate
Code 7
Black iron
Code 1
With mortise plate
With mortise plate
With hook plate
With hook plate
PAGE 139
CASEMENT AND CUPBOARD CATCHES
D
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 140
CASEMENT CATCHES
Code 1
Code 1
Black iron
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 142
CUPBOARD TURNBUTTONS
Code 11
Burnished brass
With backplate
Code 1
Without backplate
Code 11
Burnished brass
With backplate
Code 1
Without backplate
Code 11
Burnished brass
With backplate
Without bac
Code 1
Code 11
Burnished brass
Without backplate
PAGE 143
CUPBOARD TURNS
Code 31
F
Code 31
Code 4
Code 31
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 144
CUPBOARD TURNS
Code 31
Birch
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 145
BALL CATCHES
Code 2
Body dia: 1/4”
Brass
F
Code 2
Body dia: 5/16”
Code 2
Body dia: 3/8”
Brass
Brass
Double ball catches are easy to install if you still have access to the inside of the cabinet. If you are planning to use the catches on anything but the most rigid cabinetwork, it is advisable to mount them horizontally at the bottom or top of the door. If mounted vertically and opposite the hinge edge of the door, any small amount of racking will change the vertical relationship between the parts and prevent the catch from functioning correctly. Plan to fit the catches before the cabinet back goes on. Mounting these catches on finishd cabinetwork can be frustrating unless you are blessed with an extremely small assistant with a ashlight. Without help of this sort, you will have to rely purely on measurement. Even with the most painstaking measurements, it is diffcult to get it right the first time, though a little ling of the male component is usually all it takes. Because of the nicky nature of these catches, they are better suited to fine furniture than built in cabinetwork.
The spring pressure and feel of double ball catches can be adjusted by means of a screw at the end of each barrel.
Single ball catches can be used with the supplied strike or without. In softer woods, it may be advisable to use the strike. As a general principal, always use the largest catch your material can accommodate, the larger the catch, the better the feel and sound. A ball catch can be fitted in a variety of locations around a door without much trouble. Generally they will be positioned in the bottom of the door as far away from the hinge as possible. On tall doors it might be a good idea to use a catch top and bottom. A countersink bit makes an ideal indent for the ball. This indent can be accurately located if a sheet of carbon paper is laid down on the wood and the door is closed carefully. The end of the resulting black line will mark the center of your countersink. Drill a very shallow countersink to check for correct positioning. As you drill it deeper, you can move its center a little if some adjustment is required.
Code 2
Body dia: 1/2”
Brass
Code 14
Brass
Body dia: 7/16”
Body dia: 11/32”
Body dia: 1/4”
Code 17
The three catches shown bottom right are American made by Brusso and emphasize sophisticated finish and function.

The four anged ball catches at the top right are English.

The three catches bottom left are American made and finely finished.

Brass
Code 17
Brass
Chrome
Chrome
Code 17
Brass
Chrome
PAGE 146
ASSORTED CATCHES AND HASPS
Secretaire catches were designed to secure the fall front writing surface of period secretaire desks in the closed position. Because of their strength and neat detailing, they turn up in any number of situations where a quick release catch is needed.
Code 1
Polished
brass
Antiqued
brass
Code 1
This push button latch is adjustable to suit door thicknesses between 1/2” and 7/8”
Code 11
Code 11
These two hasp and staples use a turn staple to secure the hasp in the closed position. The larger item is also drilled to accept a padlock. In both cases, the hasp may be installed as illustrated, or reversed with the upper leaf mounted inaccesibly to the underside of the lid for greater security.
Code 10
Code 1
HASP AND STAPLES
PAGE 147
All the staples on this page are drilled to accept the shackle of any normal padlock.
F
Code 11
This hasp consists of 3 pieces, pictured above and below.
Code 11
Code 7
Code 11
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 148
TABLE CATCHES
Code 1
Code 1
Table turn catch
Banjo catch
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Burnished brass
Burnished brass
Table catches can serve a variety of purposes all related to registering table leaves in place. Different tables have quite different requirements and the correct catch should be used in each case. Dining tables of the 18th century were very often an assemblage of independent units that could be pushed together in different combinations to form a single table of suitable size for every occasion. In order to keep these elements from shifting side to side or up and down, each top would key into the next with splines or pins. Table clips were used to keep the tables from coming apart. These clips are installed as pairs at each joint. They are fitted near the table edge for easy
access and a little visual interest. More modern extension tables built on telescoping table slides need a catch to prevent the leaves from creeping apart. Turn catches keep the leaves together and are easy to use. If crawling on the oor is not acceptable, then a pair of catches should be used at each joint. These can then be set accessibly near the table edge.
Tilt-top tables have their own catches, either round or banjoshaped spring loaded devices that release to allow the table surface to tilt through 90 degrees for storage against a wall. These catches are mounted to the underside of the table surface and engage the strike which is mortised into the table pedestal.
PAGE 149
TABLE FORKS AND CLIPS
All our table catches, clips and forks are sold individually.
Code 1
Center to center: 3 1/8”
G
Code 4
Code 1
Center to center: 2 5/8”
Code 1
Center to center: 2 1/8”
Table fork
Code 1
PAGE 150
SASH, TABLE AND MIRROR SCREWS
The sash screw was conceived as a security device for double hung windows. A hole is drilled through one frame and into the other. The flanged nut is set into the second frame so when the screw is inserted and tightened, the two frames are locked together. These screws can be used in many applications where individual sections need to be assembled securely and disassembled easily.
Code 2
Brass with steel thread
Bolt dia: 1/4”
Bolt length:
Code 2
2 1/2”
Brass with steel thread
3”
Bolt dia: 5/16”
4”
Bolt length:
2 1/2”
3”
Code 2
3 1/2”
Mirror screws allow a mirror frame to swivel easily between its supports, and then be locked firmly at the desired angle.
Brass with steel thread
4”
Bolt dia: 3/8”
Bolt length:
2 1/2”
3”
3 1/2”
4”
Code 1
Brass with steel thread
This table screw has no matching nut.
Code 1
PAGE 151
PRIVACY BOLTS
This surface mounted indicator bolt set combines a positive locking function with an outside safety release. The indicator disc can be set to show either the words “engaged” and “vacant” or the colors red and green.
Code 1
H
Code 1
Code 1
Backset: 1 3/4”
Backset: 2 1/4”
Code 1
Backset: 1 1/4”
This mortise privacy bolt allows the option of emergency external release. The finish and style match our door knob sets for an elegant and functional solution to the privacy requirement of bedrooms and bathrooms.
Code 7
Code 7
Backset: 2 3/8”
Backset: 2 3/4”
Black iron
Black iron
PAGE 152
BRASS SURFACE BOLTS
Code 1
The bolt on this item has a beveled end, allowing it to self latch.
Code 1
A spring indent keeps this foot bolt in the withdrawn position until fully engaged.
PAGE 153
BRASS SURFACE BOLTS
Code 1
This bolt is supplied with both the strike shown and a mortise strike.
H
Code 2
These low profile surface bolts are less than 3/16” thick excluding the knob. Both the strikes shown are included.
Code 2
Code 11
Bolt length:
2 1/4” 153C14P
Code 1
3”
5”
Bolt length:
2 1/4” 153C14A
4”
5”
Code 1
PAGE 154
BRASS FLUSH BOLTS
Code 1
Code 1
Size:
Size:
8” x 3/4” x 1 1/2”
3” x 1/2” x 3/4”
Size:
10” x 3/4” x 1 1/2”
Size:
12” x 3/4” x 1 1/2”
Size:
18” x 3/4” x 1 1/2”
Code 1
Size: 4” x 5/8” x 7/8”
Code 1
Size: 6” x 3/4” x 1 1/4”
Code 1
For stone or
tile floors
Code 1
For wood
oors
PAGE 155
CREMONE BOLTS
Please allow a 6 week delivery for cremones
Our English solid brass cremone bolts offer a wide range of stock and custom options. We stock them to suit an 84” opening with the knob or lever height at 42”. The bars can easily be cut shorter and we can supply longer bars by request. Our cremones mount and operate on the interior side of the door. All styles can be ordered with the additional parts needed to allow for exterior entry. All necessary guides and strikes are supplied for both in-swinging and out-swinging doors.
The usual plated finishes are available by special order. Solid unlacquered polished bronze can be supplied where noted at about double the cost of polished brass.
Code 1
With lever (shown)
One side function
RH
LH
RH
LH
Both side function
RH
H
LH
RH
LH
Code 1
One side function
Code 1
With oval knob
One side function
RH
Both side function
LH
(example below)
RH
LH
Both side function
RH
LH
RH
LH
This item is available in solid unlacquered polished bronze by special order
Inset shown at reduced size
PAGE 156
CREMONE
BOLTS
Code 1
One side function
Code 1
With lever
Both side function
(shown on page 155)
One side function
Both side function
Code 1
With oval knob
One side function
Both side function
This item available in solid unlacquered polished bronze by special order.
DOOR
PAGE 157
BOLTS
H
Code 7
Code 26
PRODUCT SIZE
Black iron
Rusted iron
All product shown over a 1/4”
grid, details on the sides
Bolt length: 21”
Bolt length: 20”
shown full size.
PAGE 158
DOOR AND CUPBOARD BOLTS
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 7
Code 26
Black iron
Rusted iron
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 159
DOOR AND CUPBOARD BOLTS
Code 26
Length: 16”
(shown
shortened to
fit page)
Rusted iron
H
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
PAGE 160
DOOR AND CUPBOARD BOLTS
These bolts can be provided with either a surface mounted or mortise strike.
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
PAGE 161
DOOR AND CUPBOARD BOLTS
The bolt on the upper-left is not supplied with strikes.
H
Code 13
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 162
DOOR LATCHES AND LOCKS
These English mortise latches have 8mm hubs. The lever strength option has a heavy duty spring suitable for heavy, unsprung levers.
Code 3
Brass trim
Lever strength
Backset: 1 3/4”
Backset: 2 1/4”
Backset: 3 1/2”
Knob strength
Backset: 2 1/4”
These high quality tubular latches have 8mm hubs. The 2” backset body is only 2 5/8” deep.
Code 8
Code 8
Lever strength
Knob strength
Backset:2”
Backset: 2 3/8”
Backset: 2 3/8”
Backset: 2 3/4”
Backset: 2 3/4”
Backset: 2 3/8”
Backset: 2”
Backset: 2 3/4”
Backset: 2 3/8”
Backset: 2 3/4”
Backset: 2 3/8”
Backset: 2 3/4”
Backset: 2 3/8”
Black
Backset: 2 3/4”
Backset: 2 3/8”
Black
Backset: 2 3/4”
Backset: 2 3/8”
Backset: 2 3/4”
MORTISE DOOR LOCKSETS
PAGE 163
The latches on these locksets are available in lever strength only.
I
For Skeleton key (2” c/c)
Code 3
Brass trim
For EuroCylinder (2” c/c)
Backset: 1 3/4"
Brass trim
Backset: 2 1/4"
Backset: 1 3/4"
Backset: 3 1/2"
Backset: 2 1/4"
Backset: 3 1/2"
Code 8
Keyed EuroCylinder
US10B (dark)
Body length: 2 7/16”
Body length: 2 7/16”
Body length: 2 7/16”
Body length: 2 7/8”
Body length: 2 7/8”
Body length: 2 7/8”
Our Eurocylinders use Shlage “C” keyway. The 2 7/16” length will suit 1 3/4” doors when combined with our trim. The 2 7/8” length will suit 2 1/4” thick doors.
PAGE 164
DEADBOLTS AND SLIDING DOOR LOCKSET
Code 8
Code 26
Backset:2 3/8”
Rusted iron
Backset:2 3/8”
Backset:2 3/4”
Backset:2 3/4”
US10B (dark)
Backset:2 3/8”
Backset:2 3/4”
Backset:2 3/8”
Backset:2 3/4”
Black
Backset:2 3/8”
Backset:2 3/4”
These American sliding door latches are supplied with thumbturn trim on both sides. A thumbturn can be removed from one trim plate if a privacy function is required.
Code 11
PAGE 165
CAST BRASS
RIM LOCKS
These rim locks are English made and have 8mm hubs to suit our Code 1 knobs or rings. The ring shown in the photograph is not included with the rim lock, but is available on page 124. The round and oval knobsets on page 109 are for use with these rim locks.
Code 3
Size: 8” x 4”
Right hand
Left hand (shown)
Size: 6” x 3”
I
Right hand
Left hand
PAGE 166
CAST BRASS RIM LOCKS
These rim locks are English made and have 8mm hubs to suit our Code 1 knobs or rings. The round and oval knobsets on page 109 are for use with these rim locks.
Code 3
PAGE 167
IRON RIM LOCK
The lever shown is an example and is not included.
I
Code 13
Patinated iron with brass detail
Right hand (shown)
Left hand
This European rim lock is a natural companion to the levers on page 120. The lever shown is an example and not included with the rim lock. The springing is strong and well up to supporting heavy levers. Though very well engineered, no rim lock is as secure as a mortised lock, so these will need to be partnered with an auxiliary keyed deadbolt if used in an entry application.
PAGE 168
HALF MORTISE DRAWER AND DESK LOCKS
Most locks are supplied with two keys.
Code 3
Selvedge: 9/16”
These two locks are exclusive to our catalog. The 2 3/4” x 2 1/4” dimension is typical of 18th and early 19th century locks, making them particularly useful for repair and reproduction work. The 1 1/8” distance to keyhole allows for less crowded positioning of the escutcheon on crossbanded or cockbeaded drawer fronts. The lock with the sloping selvedge shown on the right is designed for the angled edge of a fall front desk writing surface.
Code 3
Selvedge: 9/16”
Code 3
Most of our English cabinet locks are available in two qualities. The more expensive locks are built on an extruded brass plate, employ a two lever mechanism, and are screwed together. The cheaper locks are built on a pressed brass plate with a single lever mechanism and are riveted together. Either type will function equally reliably. The extruded plate looks better than the pressed plate and the two lever mechanism is harder to pick than the one lever type.

An example of the exposed side of each type is shown in the lower left corner of this page.
Selvedge: 9/16”
Extruded brass
Pressed brass
Code 3
Selvedge: 9/16”
Extruded brass
Pressed brass
Code 3
Selvedge: 1/2”
Extruded brass
Pressed brass
Code 3
Selvedge: 7/16”
Code 3
Extruded brass
Selvedge: 1/2”
Pressed brass
Pressed steel
This lock has a useful 1” distance to pin and being steel lends itself to modification for custom applications.
PAGE 169
HALF MORTISE DRAWER OR DOOR LOCK
I
Code 13
Size:
5” X 3 3/8”
Distance to pin: 2 3/16”
R.H.
Our European iron cabinet locks on this and the next page are available in both inside surface mount or half mortise styles. These locks come with one key of the type shown and locks of a given type are all keyed alike.
The strikes below are a starting point that in most cases will require bending or cutting to function in your particular situation.
Distance to pin: 2 3/8”
R.H.
Distance to pin: 2 9/16”
R.H.
Distance to pin: 2 3/4”
R.H.
Distance to pin: 3”
R.H.
Distance to pin: 3 3/16”
R.H.
Code 13
Code 13
Code 13
PAGE 170
DRAWER AND CUPBOARD LOCKS
Code 13
Patinated iron with brass trim
Size:
2” X 3”
Distance to pin: 3/4”
R.H.
L.H.
Distance to pin: 1”
R.H.
L.H.
Distance to pin: 1 3/16”
R.H.
L.H.
Size:
2 3/4” X 3”
Distance to pin: 1 3/8”
R.H.
L.H.
Distance to pin: 1 5/8”
R.H.
L.H.
Distance to pin: 1 3/4”
R.H.
L.H.
Size:
3 9/16” X 3”
Distance to pin: 2”
R.H.
L.H.
Size:
5” X 3”
Distance to pin: 3 3/16”
R.H.
L.H.
Distance to pin: 4”
R.H.
L.H.
PAGE 171
HALF MORTISE DOOR LOCKS
Code 3
Selvedge: 9/16”
Right hand
Left hand
Code 3
Selvedge: 9/16”
Right hand
Left hand
This unusual lock has attributes of both cupboard and drawer lock. It is suited to a variety of applica tions, from sliding doors to boxes and fall front desks. The two-way keyhole allows for vertical or horizontal installation.
Code 3
Selvedge: 1/2”
I
Right hand
Left hand
Code 3
Selvedge: 7/16”
Right hand
Left hand
Code 3
Code 3
Selvedge: 1/2”
Selvedge: 3/8”
Right hand
Right hand
Left hand
This cupboard latch/lock is supplied with a solid brass oval knob for the latch and a key for locking.
Left hand
PAGE 172
SURFACE MOUNTED CUPBOARD LOCKS
These locks have a central keyhole position. Turning the key slides the bolt from one side of the lock to the other. The locks can be used on either right or left swinging doors. Each lock is supplied with two keys.
Code 3
Extruded brass
Code 3
Extruded brass
Code 3
Extruded brass 172L21
The better quality surface mounted locks above are built on a thick brass plate. The mechanism is fitted with screws and the completed lock is then hand finished. The cheaper locks below are built of a thinner brass and riveted together. All these locks are equally functional, and differ only in visual appeal.
Code 3
Pressed brass
Code 3
Code 3
Pressed brass
Pressed steel
PAGE 173
FULL MORTISE LOCKS
Code 3
Code 3
Brass face/Steel body
Selvedge: 3/8”
Selvedge: 11/16”
Code 3
Right hand
Backset: 3/4”
Selvedge: 5/8”
Backset: 1 3/16”
Right hand
Left hand
Backset: 1 9/16”
Backset: 2”
Left hand
Backset: 2 3/8”

CABINET LOCKS

Traditional cabinet locks are available in an array of mounting, material and size choices to suit most preferences. ree con gurations are the “half mortise”, “full mortise” and “surface mount” style lock cases. The “half mortise” is found on almost all fine English and American antiques prior to the mid-19th century. This type of lock is mortised into the back side and edge of the work and lays flush. The “full mortise” lock is mortised into the edge of the work. The “surface mount” lock is simply screwed into the inside of the work. Each of these types has its advantages.

HALF MORTISE

The half mortise lock strikes a good balance between ease of installation and unobtrusive utility. The work necessary to fit these locks make greater demand on finesse than muscle, as all the cuts are of the wide, shallow nature, rather than the more problematic narrow, deep variety demanded by the full mortise lock. This attribute suited the pre-power tool cabinetmaker. Because the half mortise lock is always registered against the inside of the work, the bolt is biased to the rear. Traditional cabinet making accommodated this rearward bias with casework drawer dividers constructed of suffcient width material. In modern face frame construction, this characteristic can lead to problems and either the full mortise or surface mounted lock could be a better choice. Half mortise locks were rarely paired with a strike plate. The bolt of the lock would engage into a simple mortise cut directly into the adjacent woodwork. Unless that woodwork is of fragile thickness, there is no downside to this method. Strike plates serve no useful purpose in this case and cost the cabinetmaker time and money.

FULL MORTISE

These locks were virtually unknown before the days of mechanized woodworking. Because a full mortise lock is fitted into a deep mortise cut into the edge of the work, it is troublesome to install without a mortising machine; with one, it could hardly be easier.
Though conceived with rapid and mechanized installation in mind, the full mortise lock is not without some drawbacks. The bolt will generally be centered in the work, rather than biased to the rear as in the case of the half mortise lock. This may result in certain benefits related to simplicity of construction, but also brings the bolt nearer to the front of the casework, making it more likely for that area to break out under force.
Using a strike plate can compensate for this weakness. A full mortise lock can be a problem when installed in thinner material. A full mortise lock will leave two walls half as thick as the single wall left by a half mortise lock of the same thickness. With only minimal material in which to fasten, the keyhole and escutcheon pins or screws must be short to avoid interference with the lock.

SURFACE MOUNT

Surface mount locks are simply screwed to the back of the door or drawer front, no cutting required. Most surface mounted locks have a two-way keyhole allowing them to function as both hands of a door lock as well as a drawer lock. The keyhole is usually centered in the upright width of the lock and the bolt can exit from either side depending on which way the key is turned. The bolt of a surface mount lock engages behind the adjacent face frame or door to prevent opening. Surface mount locks are versatile and popular, but like many things easy and convenient, they are not going to impress anyone with their refinement. Surface mount locks have historical credibility on country styles of furniture, particularly as door locks, but should probably be avoided on more formal work.

TERMS

The various names for the parts of a lock and the definition of a left or right hand lock are a source of endless confusion. Please refer to our glossary on pages 303 & 304 of the catalog for useful terms.
PAGE 174
INSIDE SURFACE MOUNTED CUPBOARD LOCKS
Suitable strikes for these locks are available on page 169.
Code 13
Backset: 2”
Right hand
Left hand
Code 13
Backset:1 9/16”
Right hand
Left hand
PAGE 175
INSIDE SURFACE MOUNTED CUPBOARD LOCKS
Code 13
Code 13
Right hand
Right hand
Left hand
Left hand
The cupboard locks on this and the last page have beveled and spring loaded bolts that are self-latching, but require the key to release. A single key is supplied with each lock and locks of a particular type are keyed alike.
The strikes shown on page 169 are a starting point that in most cases will require bending or cutting to function in your particular situation.
I
Code 13
Code 13
Right hand
Right hand
Left hand
Left hand
PAGE 176
HALF MORTISE BOX AND CHEST LOCKS
Code 3
Selvedge: 5/8”
Pressed steel
Code 3
Selvedge: 7/16”
Extruded brass
Pressed brass
Most of our English cabinet locks are available in two qualities. The more expensive locks are built on an extruded brass plate, employ a two lever mechanism and are screwed together. The cheaper locks are built on a pressed brass plate with a single lever mechanism and are riveted together. Either type will function equally reliably. The extruded plate looks better than the pressed plate and the two lever mechanism is harder to pick than the one lever type. Most locks are supplied with two keys. The bottom left and top right locks on this page show the exposed side of the lock and are examples of each type.
Code 3
Selvedge: 9/16”
Extruded brass
Pressed brass
Code 3
Selvedge: 1/2”
Extruded brass
Pressed brass
Code 3
Selvedge: 3/8”
Extruded brass
Code 3
Selvedge: 7/16”
Extruded brass
Pressed brass
Code 5
Selvedge: 5/16”
Pressed brass
PAGE 177
PATINATED IRON OVERLAY HINGES
The need to secure precious objects is so innate to humans and many other animals that it is not surprising the earliest locks appear as long as 4000 years ago. The oldest known locks employed a pin tumbler mechanism much like that of the modern cylinder lock but on a far larger scale. This type of lock has been found in cultures as diverse as those of Egypt, Japan and Norway. The Romans are credited with the invention of the metal lock and in fact developed the warded lock which uses the familiar skeleton key still common today. Warded locks rely on sections of concentric ridges around which the key must fit in order for it to act on the lock's sliding bolt.
Time passed and the increasing complexity of locks became a source of much pride to the locksmithing profession and sometimes misplaced assurance to the person with something to protect. The lock picker was never far behind these advances and being engaged in a prideful profession demanded job satisfaction that only more advanced locks could provide. The late 18th century gave him a more challenging device, the double action lever lock. is mechanism is found in most furniture grade cabinet locks today. As the key slides the bolt into or out of the lock it also moves one or more spring loaded levers away from the bolt's path. The more levers, the harder the lock is to pick.
Code 13
Selvedge: 5/16”
Pressed brass
I
Code 13
Selvedge: 3/8”
Pressed brass
A fine reproduction of an 18th century Pennsylvania desk bookcase made by Verret & Co. Richmond, VA. Hardware supplied by Whitechapel Ltd.
Code 13
Brass with steel body
This roll top desk lock is comprised of the four parts shown.
PAGE 178
INSIDE SURFACE MOUNTED CHEST LOCK
Code 13
This large French box or chest lock allows for a greater degree of movement between the box and lid of a chest than do our smaller English locks. It is mounted on the inside of the box with its mechanisms exposed as shown.
PAGE 179
EUROPEAN IRON ESCUTCHEONS
The items on this page are examples of a wide range of European iron escutcheons that we offer. These escutcheons and others like them can be found on pages 82 through 92 and are offered as either keyhole escutcheons or backplates for handles and knobs.
J
PAGE 180
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
Code 1
Code 1
Brass
Brass
Code 1
Code 1
Code 4
Brass
Code 1
Brass
Brass
The row of escutcheons above are thread style while the row below are anged.
Brass
Code 4
Code 5
Code 4
Code 4
Code 5
Brass
Brass
Brass
Brass
Brass
Code 4
Brass
Code 1
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Brass
Brass
Brass
We carry well over 100 different keyhole escutcheons in a variety of styles in both iron and brass. Escutcheons can be divided into two distinct categories: surface mounted escutcheons that are simply pinned or screwed over the keyhole and thread escutcheons that are mortised into the keyhole and show as a keyhole shaped brass line (thread). A third style called the flanged thread escutcheon has attributes of both. Its body is mortised into the keyhole while its bead-like ange sits on the surface.
Code 1
Code 4
Brass

SURFACE MOUNTED ESCUTCHEONS

Surface mounted escutcheons are by far the easiest to fit. The escutcheon is simply pinned into place and can cover a relatively crude job of keyhole preparation. Surface mounted escutcheons are sometimes made in a shape to match a handle so a uni ed design can be realized. Modern locks can make surface mounted escutcheons harder to place without crowding the edge. The distance to the key pin on older locks was usually 1” or more, while these days 3/4” is more common. If a surface mounted escutcheon is to be used with a modern lock, be careful to pick one that avoids this effect particularly on crossbranded or cockbeaded surfaces. We can supply a very nice lock shown on page 168 with a 1 1/8” distance to pin that will avoid this problem.

THREAD ESCUTCHEONS

If no suitable surface mounted escutcheon is available, or simple elegance is preferred, then consider a thread escutcheon. Select a thread escutcheon based on its visual effect on the furniture rather than the fit of the key. Older locks often used keys with bigger bits than those common today, so larger escutcheons were more common on period furniture. Fitting these escutcheons is straightforward, but must be precise.

FLANGED THREAD ESCUTCHEONS

Flanged thread escutcheons can be an attractive alternative that does not need the degree of precision fit required of a thread escutcheon. Due to their greater vulnerability, they are usually fixed with small pins through the holes both and down into the surrounding wood.
PAGE 181
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 5
Code 1
J
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 182
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 1
Code 4
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 4
PAGE 183
BACKPLATES AND KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
We have many more iron escutcheons in all sorts of sizes and styles. Please see pages 82 through 92.
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
J
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
Code 26
Code 26
Rusted iron
Rusted iron
PAGE 184
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 4
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 185
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
These escutcheons match the handles on pages 22 and 23.
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
J
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 186
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
These escutcheons match the handles on pages 18 and 19.
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
A fine reproduction of an 18th century Pennsylvania desk bookcase made by Verret & Co. Richmond, VA. Hardware supplied by Whitechapel Ltd.
PAGE 187
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
These escutcheons match the handles on pages 24 and 25.
Code 4
J
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 188
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 13
Code 13
Right hand (shown)
Right hand
Left hand
Left hand (shown)
More escutcheons and backplates of this type are shown between pages 82 and 92.
PAGE 189
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
J
Code 5
Code 4
Code 5
Code 4
Code 1
PAGE 190
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
The French armoire escutcheons on this and the preceding page are sand cast and hand finishd. The bowed face and beveled edges set these authentic escutcheons apart from any mass produced item. To compliment them, we offer hinges and locks of the same quality from the same manufacturer on pages 218 and 219.
Code 31
Right hand
Left hand (shown)
Code 31
Right hand (shown)
Left hand
Code 31
The lower half of this escutcheon is the mirror image of the upper.
Right hand (shown)
Left hand
PAGE 191
KEYHOLE ESCUTCHEONS
J
Code 31
Right hand
Left hand (shown)
Code 31
Code 31
Code 31
Right hand
Right hand
The lower half of this escutcheon is the mirror image of the upper.
Left hand (shown)
Left hand (shown)
PAGE 192
EURO CYLINDER ESCUTCHEONS
These escutcheons are cut to suit the locks and cylinders on page 163.
Code 13
Code 13
Code 7
Black iron
Code 31
Code 1
PAGE 193
KEYHOLE COVERS AND KNOCKER
These covers help to protect an exposed cylinder from weather and reduce the likelihood of seizing.
J
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Code 7
Black iron
Black iron
PAGE 194
PUSH PLATES
Code 26
Size: 2” x 12”
Rusted iron
Code 1
This iron push plate can easily be drilled and mated to a variety of our rings and knobs.
Size: 2 1/2 x 15”
Code 1
Size: 2 1/2 x 15”
PAGE 195
SASH LIFTS
This English cast brass sash lift is unusually large and comfortable. It is best suited to institutional and studio scaled windows.
Code 1
Code 1
This cast brass handle is an authorized Colonial Williamsburg reproduction.
Code 1
K
Code 11
This extruded brass sash lift from England has a unique profile, is comfortable to the hand, and can be used either way up.
Code 11
End view
This pattern is cast brass, it is both strong and elegant.
PAGE 196
TRANSOM OR FANLIGHT FITTINGS
Code 1
Code 1
Hook for 1” diameter pole
Code 1
Code 1
Catch with box strike
Our transom catch is spring loaded with a beveled bolt Catch with universal strike for self-latching action. We can supply it with either a universal or box strike.
Code 1
PAGE 197
CASEMENT STAYS
Matching casement catches are shown on pages 136.
Code 1
Length: 8”

TRADITIONAL CASEMENT STAYS

The stays on this page and the next are still in general use in Europe. A pivoting bar with a series of holes drilled along its length is attached to the window and two pins over which the bar can drop are screwed into the casement.
When closed, the bar lays parallel to the window and spans both pins, preventing the window from opening. The window can be opened to a variety of different angles depending on which hole is dropped over which pin. With the exception of the “Ashe Pattern” stay shown on the left of this page, none of these stays can be used on windows with interior screens.
Length: 10”
Length: 12”
K
Code 1
Ashe Pattern
Length: 10”
Length: 12”
PAGE 198
CASEMENT STAYS
Please see the notes on page 197 regarding use and suitability of these casement stays. Matching casement catches are shown on pages 137 and 138.
Code 7
Code 7
Code 7
Black iron
Black iron
Black iron
Length: 8”
Length: 8”
Length: 8”
Length: 10”
Length: 10”
Length: 10”
Length: 12”
Length: 12”
Length: 12”
PAGE 199
CASEMENT STAYS
Code 1
For out-swinging windows
K
Code 1
For in-swinging windows
PAGE 200
TELESCOPING CASEMENT STAY
These telescoping friction stays were engineered as casement window stays, but we nd they also make excellent chest stays. Because these stays collapse into themselves, they require only minimal free space inside a chest and the internal friction provides a margin of safety against accidental closure. Depending on the size of the lid they are expected to support, the friction will allow a lid to remain open in a variety of di erent positions and to close softly with only gentle pressure. Our telescoping friction stays also function very nicely in their intended purpose as casement window stays. The friction is suffcient to hold a window against moderate wind.
Code 1
Non-Lockable
Friction only
(shown to right)
Antique brass
CASEMENT OR LID STAYS
PAGE 201
Aside from their intended use as casement stays, these sliding stays are excellent choices if a chest lid needs to be held rmly open. They are also ideal for drafting tables where an adjustable angle is needed. Windows fitted with an interior screen will not work with the stay on the right hand side of this page. In such a case, the telescoping stays or the “Ashe Pattern” stay on page 197 are the best choice.
Code 1
Code 11
Lockable no
Friction
Antique brass
K
PAGE 202
FOLDING LID STAYS
Our folding stays are sold as a pair.
Code 1
Folded length: 3” Folded length: 4”
Folded length: 5”
Folded length: 6”
Folded length: 8”
Folding stay in two vertical front desk applications
Folding stay in slant front desk application
ITEM #
A
B
C
8”
7 1/4”
8 3/4” 5 3/16”
ITEM #
A & B
C
8”
10 5/16”
1 3/4”
6”
7 1/2”
1 3/4”
5”
6 3/16”
1 3/4”
Folding stay in chest or box application
Please confirm the applicability of all dimensions provided by us to your work before drilling any holes.

STAYS

Every woodworker will from time to time have call for a stay of some kind. Stays of one sort or another are used to hold chest and box lids from falling backwards or forwards. They can be used to support desk writing surfaces, or to hold drafting tables at a suitable working angle and allow them to fold at for storage. Countless other uses will crop up, but choosing the right stay and guring out how to install it properly is not as easy as it first appears. As often as not, the stay that seems the obvious choice will resist your most determined e orts to have it do the task you have in mind. Either it won’t open far enough or it won’t close without encroaching where it does not belong. Sometimes the best stay is nothing more than a length of rope or chain. Our stays fall into four categories: Folding, Sliding, Telescoping, and Casement. In the case of a blanket chest, it might be possible to use each of these alternatives, but some quite serious safety considerations will come into play and depending on your particular situation, you will probably want to dismiss one or more alternatives. The same is true in making an appropriate selection for a desk, though the consequences are of less impact.

FOLDING STAYS

The folding brass lid stay shown on this page is an excellent choice for both chest lid and desk flap support. Correctly installed, the folding stay intrudes very little into the box or desk. The chance of interference with shelves
or cubbyholes is much less than with a simple sliding stay. Folding stays over-extend to slightly more than 180 degrees. This attribute a prevents them from closing again until partially released at the joint by pulling or pushing. This locking action is useful, but could be considered a liability. We would not recommend these stays for use around small children. The potential for accidental release and pinched fingers is slight, but does exist. We have friction stays that are better suited under these circumstances.
The illustrations show typical installations on a chest and two styles of fall front desks. In either application, the smaller stays need to be installed so the joint folds away from the hinges (forward folding). The larger stays can often be fitted to fold either way, but space limits will often require their joint to fold towards the hinge. The location points we have provided will work for both orientations, and are measured from the hinge pin. These are workable locations, but not the only possibilities. In the case of the chest installation, these dimensions will provide slightly more than a 90 degree opening of the lid and for the falling front desk flap, a horizontal opening.
We have illustrated two types of vertical fall front desk applications, the measurements are the same in both cases. The first is typical if the hinged writing surface is attached to fixed cabinetry. The second is useful if the writing surface is a drawer front when closed. We have ignored the 3” and 4” stays as being undersized for this job.
If used to support the writing surface of a slant front desk, you will be limited to desks with a 60 degree or steeper angle. Lesss than 60 degrees, and the desk mounting point will need to be so far back that the extended stay will no longer be long enough to allow horizontal opening. Only the 8” stays are suitable for this application. As most traditional slant front desks have a slope of greater angle, we suggest either the traditional pullout supports or sliding stays.
ITEM #
A & B
C
FOLDING
8”
9 1/2”
1 1/4”
backward
6”
7 1/2”
1 1/4”
backward
5”
6 1/2”
1 1/4”
backward
4”
6 1/2”
1 1/4”
forward
3”
6 1/2”
1 1 /4”
forward
PAGE 203
SLIDING STAYS

SLIDING STAYS

Sliding stays are the simplest stays we offer. A bar is fitted with apivoting foot at one end and a fixed rivet at the other. Between these two obstructions is another foot consisting of a collar pivoting on a mounting plate through which the bar slides. The most common application for these stays is to prevent a chest or box lid from falling backwards.
On casual study, the sliding stay will seem the obvious choice for many applications where a hinged panel needs restraint. Think twice before committing yourself to these stays, because, while they may at first glance seem the closest relative to a simple chain or rope,they differ in one critical regard. In the closed position, a chain or rope will simply hang wherever gravity takes it, and no real consideration need be given as to where it ends up or how it gets there. By contrast, the rigid arm of the sliding stay will swing across a significant area as it closes and this area must be kept clear of obstruction.
We have provided mounting positions for our various sizes of sliding stay in both desk and chest applications. All these measurements are taken using the hinge pivot pin as the point of reference. Also provided is a clearance requirement for each situation (dimension ‘D’). If this clearance is not available, these stays cannot be used. As often as not, a folding stay will serve the same function, and will need much less clearance.
Please confirm the applicability of these dimensions to your work before drilling any holes.
Our sliding stays are sold individually.
Code 1
Length: 6”
Length: 8”
Length: 10”
Sliding stay in
Sliding stay in
vertical fall front
slant front desk
desk application
application.
ITEM #
A B
C
D
2 1/2”
3”
2”
6”
3 1/2”
4 1/8”
2 13/16” 8”
ITEM #
A
B
C
D
4”
5 11/16” 3 5/8”
9 1/4”
3”
4”
1/2”
9”
3 1/2”
6 1/2”
1/2”
12”
K
4”
8 1/2”
1/2”
14”
Sliding stay in box
or chest application
ITEM #
A
B
C
D
4”
2 3/4”
1/2”
4”
5 1/4”
3 7/8”
1/2”
5”
7”
5”
1/2”
6”
PAGE 204
LID STAYS
The stays on this page are sold individually.
These Brusso lid stays mount into the box side. The smaller stay requires a 1/4” wide 1/2” deep mortise while the larger stay requires a 3/8” wide 3/4” deep mortise, both come with instructions. These popular stays do not intrude into the interior of the box.
Code 14
Satin brass
Code 14
Satin brass
Code 2
Brass
Length: 12”
Code 1
Code 1
Satin Brass
Satin Brass
Our English extruded brass butt hinges cover the range from large architectural sizes down to the smallest cabinet sizes. The quality of design and manufacturing is uniform across all sizes. The extruded section is milled and drilled for smooth operation and very long life. The architectural sizes offer a cost effective alternative to quality American door hinges. These hinges are fully capable of supporting the heaviest of doors and are historically appropriate.
PAGE 205
EXTRUDED BRASS FLATBACK BUTT HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Size: 4” x 3”
Polished
L
Unfinished
Size: 3” x 2”
Size: 2 1/2” x 2”
Polished
Polished
Unfinished
Unfinished
PAGE 206
EXTRUDED BRASS FLATBACK BUTT HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Size: 3” x 1 1/2”
Size: 2 1/2” x 1 1/2”
Size: 2 1/2” x 1 1/4”
Polished
Polished
Polished
Unfinished
Unfinished
Unfinished
Size: 2” x 2”
Size: 2” x 1 1/2”
Size: 2” x 1 1/4”
Polished
Polished
Polished
Unfinished
Unfinished
Unfinished
Size: 1 1/2” x 1 1/2”
Size: 1 1/2” x 1 1/4”
Polished
Polished
Unfinished
Unfinished

SWAGED & FLATBACK HINGES

We carry both swaged and atback hinges in all sizes for both cabinet and architectural applications. Here follows an explanation of these two outwardly similar hinge types. The traditional English hinge is a atback design while the traditional American hinge is a swaged style. The American swaged form is the result of a manufacturing tradition that extends back to the early part of the last century. Then, as now, by far the bulk of American hinges were formed of sheet material. The practicalities of forming hinge sections from sheet material generally favored the use of thinner material than might otherwise be desired and in order to make a stronger, more wear resistant product, the barrel of
the hinge was enlarged to create bigger bearing surfaces. Standards that eventually became defined by trade and government agencies naturally reflected the then current state of technology. So all American hinges to this day, however they are manufactured, still bear the characteristics of an economical, mass produced product. Our American made swaged hinges are milled from solid brass extrusions, rather than folded from sheet material. This results in a hinge with a more precise fit, a much longer life and far better finish.
The design of our English atback hinges is also the direct consequence of past manufacturing methods, though in their case, a century or more older. The first English brass butt hinges were hand fitted and finishd sand castings. To compensate for the brittleness of this material, the hinges were made as thick as possible within the limits of the particular hinge size. The atback design allows the thickness of each hinge leaf to be close to half the diameter of the hinge barrel. Even though hinges are no longer sand cast, the pro le of the modern English hinge remains the same as it was 200 years ago. A subtle detail found in our English butt hinges is the tapering of the leaf. When these hinges were still cast brass, the greatest weakness was where the leaf section meets the barrel. In contrast, the edges of the leaf are under no stress and could be thin, so
the hinge makers would taper the leaf away from the barrel. For any given hinge size, the leaf thickness of a atback hinge will tend to be greater and the barrel diameter smaller than the equivalent swaged hinge. Your choice between these two hinge types should ultimately be based on taste and period. The atback hinges with their slender elegant barrels should certainly be your choice if you are replicating the avor of period furniture, while the more imposing barrels of the swaged hinges suit heavier late 19th and 20th century styles.
PAGE 207
EXTRUDED BRASS FLATBACK BUTT HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 8
Size: 2” x 1 1/4”
Code 8
Size: 2 1/2” x 1 1/2”
Code 8
Size: 3” x 1 5/8”
Code 8
Code 8
Size: 1 1/2” x 1”
Code 8
Size: 1 1/4” x 1”
Size: 1” x 1”
L
Flatback hinge
Swaged hinge

SIZE

Picking an appropriate hinge for a particular application is one of the multitude of small decisions the furnituremaker must make which ultimately makes their work look unmis- takably their own. As long as one stays within reason, the choice you make will invariably function quite adequately. As a set of general rules, a typical cabinet door of between 24” and 36” will need two hinges. While 2” hinges may suit a 24” door, 2 1/2” hinges might look better on a 36” door, and a taller door on a wardrobe may warrant 3” hinges. A door bigger than 36” may also need a third hinge to keep the door from warping.
Having decided on a hinge length, the choice of hinge width must be considered. Some woodworkers like to mortise across the full thickness of the door and try to select a hinge accordingly. In the instance of a 3/4” thick door, a 1 3/4” wide hinge will occupy the full width of the mortise. It is generally better practice to cut a stopped mortise in both the door and the cabinetwork and use a narrower hinge. This not only looks neater, but provides a positive location in two planes for the hinge. 1 1/2” hinges work well on 3/4” stock. ey allow a full 1/8” backstop against which the hinge can be registered. Back when fragile cast hinges were in general use, a narrower hinge leaf was preferred because it brought the screws closer to the hinge barrel and so reduced the unsupported width of leaf material. If a sense of historical accuracy is important then choose a 2” x 1 1/4” or 2 1/2” x 1 3/8” hinge. The last dimensional choice to be decided upon is the barrel diameter. This need not vary much in order to have a signi cant effect on the visual weight of the hinge. For cabinet hinges, the three common diameters available today are 7/32”, 1/4”, 5/16”. The choice will depend more on visual The ect than strength considerations. Slender hinge barrels compliment the elegant lines of period furniture. The heft of much 19th and 20th century cabinetwork can suit hinges of greater visual weight.

LOOSE PIN HINGES

This century we have seen the advent of loose pin hinges on furniture and cabinet work. Originally conceived for architectural doors and casement windows their removable hinge pins allow a door to be taken on and off its casework quickly and without tools. Perhaps this development serves both the cabinetmaker and the user equally well. The cabinet maker gains a little time, while the customer acquires decorative tips at top and bottom of his hinges. These hinges suit architectural cabinetwork particularly well as, in effect, they are smaller relatives of standard door hinges and so allow a design continuity throughout a house. Their applica- bility to furniture use is less historically justi ed and as they are built with clearance to allow the pin to be easily withdrawn, they are not as precise as their xed pin cousins. The voting these days is clearly in favor of loose pin hinges, but a user needs to be aware that a xed pin hinge without balls or finials is not lacking any vital part.

FINISH

Throughout most of the 18th and 19th centuries the common butt hinge was expected to do its job without drawing attention to itself. Functional elements such as hinges and locks were not meant to be in competition with designed
elements for the user’s attention. These days, perhaps because we are starved of contact with quality materials, we like to display them to the best effect. If you are reproducing period cabinetwork, your choice should be with standard finish hinges. These can be finishd along with the surrounding woodwork and will blend unobtrusively.

INSTALLATION

Traditional atback cabinet butt hinges are mortised into the edge of the door and cabinetwork. We sell these hinges either with or without decora- tive tips. The installation is the same for either type except in one detail. Decorative tip hinges are set further forward of the cabinetwork than are their untipped counterparts.
The plain untipped butt hinge should function without drawing attention to itself. It should therefore be fitted as shallow as possible, the hinge mortise should be cut to a depth that leaves only the barrel of the hinges and a hair extra forward of the cabinetwork. The tipped butt hinge must have a full diameter of its barrel forward of the cabinetwork. This allows the pin to be removed without interference (see illustrations).
For regular butt hinges, set a marking gauge to a measurement taken from the edge of the hinge leaf to a point just short of the center of the hinge pin. Use this setting to scribe lines on the casework where you have chosen to place the hinge. Next, measure accurately the hinge length and bring corresponding lines forward to the front of the casework with a square. A scalpel or other sharp knife is the best marking tool for this layout. Set a small router with a sharp 1/4” high-speed steel straight cutter to a depth that equals the hinge barrel diameter minus desired door gap with the result divided in half. Waste away the mortise and square up the corners with a sharp chisel.
Set the door in place and shim it to create equal gaps. Mark lines on the door to match those on the casework. Use your existing marking gauge setting to mark the vertical lines on the door edge. Set the door in a bench vise and route the mortises. The door can now be installed. Use only one screw per hinge at this time. If the door closes properly, then fit the remain- ing screws. Small adjustments to the depth of the mortise can go a long way to compensate for a slightly twisted door. The same technique will work for installation of a tipped hinge, with the exception of the marking gauge setting. For a tipped hinge, the gauge will be set to the inside width of the hinge leaf.
PAGE 208
HINGES
Projection of plain hinge
Projection of loose pin hinge
ARCHITECTURAL DOOR HINGES
PAGE 209
These hinges are sold individually.
Ball tip
Acorn tip
Cone tip
Urn tip
Code 11
Size:
3” X 3”
Many respected American brand name hinges are now manufactured in the Far East and the quality is no longer what it once was. Ours are made in Pennsylvania and the quality of materials, machining and finish are better than ever. The hinges are sold individually, complete with button tips as shown. The decorative tips are sold by the pair to suit one hinge.
L
Cathedral tip
Size:
3 1/2” X 3 1/2”
Ball tips
Urn tips
Size:
4” X 4”
Acorn tips
Cathedral tips
Size:
4 1/2” X 4 1/2”
Cone tips
Size:
5” X 5”
PAGE 210
LOOSE PIN SWAGED CABINET HINGES
These hinges are sold individually. Additional tip options for the hinges are shown on the next page.
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
3” x 2 1/2”
Size:
3” x 2”
Code 11
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
2 1/2” x 2 1/2”
Size:
2 1/2” x 2”
Size:
2 1/2” x 1 3/4”
PAGE 211
LOOSE PIN SWAGED CABINET HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 11
Code 11
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
2” x 2”
Size:
2” x 1 3/4”
Size:
2” x 1 1/2”
Size:
1 1/2” x 1 1/2”
Our cabinet hinges are made in Pennsylvania, and the quality matches that of our architectural hinges. The hinges are sold individually, complete with ball tips. The decorative tips are sold by the pair to suit one hinge.
L
Button tip
Steeple tip
Cone tip
Urn tip
Cathedral tip
PAGE 212
LOOSE PIN BALL TIP FLATBACK CABINET HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
3” x 2”
Size:
3” x 1 1/2”
Code 11
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
2 1/2” x 2”
Size:
2 1/2” x 1 1/2”
Size:
2 1/2” x 1 1/4”
PAGE 213
LOOSE PIN BALL TIP FLATBACK CABINET HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
2” x 2”
Size:
2” x 1 1/2”
L
Code 11
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
1 1/2” x 1 1/2”
Size:
1 1/2” x 1 1/4”
Size:
2” x 1 1/4”
The flatback cabinet hinges on these four pages are exclusive to Whitechapel Ltd. The proportions are better suited to some furniture and cabinet styles than the fatter barreled swaged types. Please see page 208 for an in-depth discussion of the choices.
PAGE 214
LOOSE PIN URN TIP FLATBACK CABINET HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
3” x 2”
Size:
3” x 1 1/2”
Code 11
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
2 1/2” x 2”
Size:
2 1/2” x 1 1/2”
Size:
2 1/2” x 1 1/4”
PAGE 215
LOOSE PIN URN TIP FLATBACK CABINET HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
2” x 2”
Size:
2” x 1 1/2”
L
Code 11
Code 11
Code 11
Size:
2” x 1 1/4”
Size:
1 1/2” x 1 1/2”
Size:
1 1/2” x 1 1/4”
The flatback cabinet hinges on these four pages are exclusive to Whitechapel Ltd. The proportions are better suited to some furniture and cabinet styles than the fatter barreled swaged types. Please see page 208 for an in-depth discussion of the choices.
PAGE 216
DECORATIVE TIP HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
These two decorative finial tip hinges are from Spain. The screw size is small so they are better suited to light duty use.
This English extruded brass hinge is very heavily built and incorporates bronze wear washers for extended use in high load applications.
Code 2
Size:
3” x 2”
Code 5
Code 5
Size:
1 1/2” x 1 3/16”
Size:
1 3/4” x 1 5/8”
Code 5
Code 5
Size:
1 3/4”
Size: 3”
Size:
1” x 1 1/2”
Unfinished brass

Clockcase hinges

Because overlay doors are di cult to hinge with anything but modern folded hinges they were uncommon during the era of period furniture. But for reasons unknown, the waist doors of tall case clocks were often built to partially overlay the casework. With one wide leaf and one narrow leaf the tall case clock hinges on the left allow a door to project forward enough for the moulded lip. The hinged edge of the door must be left without a rabbet while the other three are rabbeted.
END VIEW
Size:
These two Spanish overlay hinges are solid brass and designed to fit a 7/16” rabbet. The 90 degree fold in the hinge leaf nests into the rabbet.
1 1/4” x 1 1/2”
Unfinished brass
PAGE 217
EUROPEAN IRON FICHE CABINET HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Fiche hinges are common on Continental European furniture. We supply French made hinges in a variety of sizes to suit most applications. These hinges consist of two steel or brass tubes capped on opposing ends by decorative tips. One tube carries a xed pin, the other slips over this pin. The tubes are formed with tangential leaves. The leaf on the lower tube projects from one side, and on the upper tube, from the other side. We have found three techniques that can be used to install these hinges. Firstly, the correct method, and then two simpler methods.

TRADITIONAL METHOD FOR LIPPED DOORS

Fiche hinges are traditionally used on rabbeted or lipped doors. The leaves are mortised into deep, thin mortises and held in place with pins or screws. Cutting these mortises is no easy matter. We can supply an 1/8” mortising chisel that will work well for the brass hinges, but is too wide for the iron hinges on this page. A method that can make this installation a little easier requires cutting pockets into which the aps seat (see illustration), after the flap has been screwed into place, a wooden plate can be fitted to add finish and additional strength.

BETTER METHOD FOR INSET DOORS

Fiche hinges adapt well to use on flush (inset) doors. The better method for installation is as illustrated. A pocket is cut in the door and the casework to accomodate their respective leaves. Leaves on fiche hinges tend to be fairly wide and depending on the thickness of your door and casework, you may need to cut them back and re-drill the screw holes. The depth of the pockets are equal to the result of the following formula: hinge barrel diameter minus desired door gap, the result divided in half. The thin leaves of the hinges will sit down a little into these fairly deep mortises and the resulting space will provide clearance for the screw heads.

QUICK NO-MORTISE METHOD FOR INSET DOORS

If speed and convenience are of the essence, it is possible to use che hinges as no-mortise hinges. To make this possible, you will need to exchange the top leaf of a right hand hinge with the top leaf of a left hand hinge. This exchange places the leaves on the same plane and allows the hinge to slip into the gap between door and frame. Depending on the thickness of wood you are working with, the leaves might need cutting back. Either countersink the screw holees or use round headed screws and create depressions in the adjacent wood to accommodate the heads.
Code 13
Size: 5”
Left hand
(shown)
Right hand
L
Code 13
Size: 7”
Left hand
(shown)
Code 13
Size: 6”
Right hand
Left hand
Code 13
Right hand
Size: 4”
(shown)
Left hand
Right hand
(shown)
PAGE 218
FRENCH CAST BRASS FICHE HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
In order to photograph at full scale, we show only the top half of the hinges on this page. The bottom half is the same.
Code 31
Code 31
Code 31
Size: 11”
Size: 19”
Size: 13 1/2”
Left hand
Left hand
Left hand
(shown)
(shown)
(shown)
Right hand
Right hand
Right hand
The hinges on this and the next page are sand cast and hand finishd. This method and standard of manufacture ensures a fully authentic product that has no equal. To compliment them, we offer escutcheons on pages 190 and 191, as well as locks on page 170 of the same quality, and from the same manufacturer.
PAGE 219
FRENCH CAST BRASS FICHE HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
L
Code 31
Size: 3 3/4”
Left hand
Code 31
Right hand
Size: 5”
(shown)
Left hand
Code 31
Code 31
Size: 8 1/2”
Size: 6 1/2”
Right hand
Left hand
Left hand
(shown)
(shown)
(shown)
Right hand
Right hand
PAGE 220
PATINATED IRON OVERLAY HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
The pintle of our patinated iron overlay hinges is mounted to the face frame with a provided through bolt and nut. The hinge leaf is surface mounted with screws and round head stud.
Code 13
Patinated Iron
Overlay: 1/4”
Code 13
Patinated Iron
Overlay: 1/2”
PAGE 221
BRASS LIFT OFF HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 8
Right hand
Code 8
Right hand
Left hand
Left hand
L
Code 8
Code 8
Code 8
Right hand
Right hand
Right hand
Left hand
Left hand
Left hand
PAGE 222
LIFT OFF AND CRANKED HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 2
Code 2
Code 2
Size: 3” x 2 1/2”
Size: 2 1/2” x 2”
Size: 2” x 1 3/4”
Polished unfinished brass
Polished unfinished brass
Polished unfinished brass
Right hand
Right hand
Right hand
Left hand
Left hand
Left hand
Code 8
Sized for 3/4” door
Code 8
Sized for 15/16” door
Polished brass 222H351P

270º DOORS

METHOD #1
This approach to 270 degree opening is popular for entertainment centers and the like. The door swings open on its pair of hinges to 180 degrees, where it normally binds. At this point, the hinged vertical element of the face frame releases itself from a magnetic or ball catch and allows the door to continue opening to 270 degrees.
METHOD #2
By bringing the pivot point of the front of a fully overlay door, our cranked hinges (222H35 & 222H351) can allow a door to open to 270 degrees. These fine Japanese hinges are machined from solid extruded brass section and are available to suit 3/4” or 15/16” material. Because they only have one bearing surface per hinge, they are not suitable for heavy doors.
This cranked hinge has multiple potential uses and due to the leaf thickness, can be countersunk on the reverse side to further increase its versatility.
Code 8
Width: 1 3/16”
Satin brass
PAGE 223
IRON OVERLAY HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
L
Please see next page for a description of these hinges.
Code 26
Overlay: 11/16”
Rusted iron
PAGE 224
IRON OVERLAY HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
This hinge and the others like it on these pages are hand forged in Switzerland. Many traditional European architectural doors are overlay style and the two larger hinges we offer are suited to this application. To use them on a flush door would require some creative adaptation.
Code 26
Overlay: 11/16”
Rusted iron
IRON OVERLAY HINGES
PAGE 225
These hinges are sold individually.
The face frame mounted pivot pins of these hinges are fastened with a woodscrew at the bottom and a through bolt behind the collar. These hinges are not banded. Please see page 224 for further information.
Code 26
Overlay: 3/8”
Rusted iron
L
Code 26
Overlay: 1/2”
Rusted iron
Code 26
Overlay: 3/8”
Rusted iron
PAGE 226
IRON SURFACE HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 13
Code 6
Black iron
Right hand
Left hand
Code 13
IRON SURFACE HINGES
PAGE 227
These hinges are sold individually.
L
Code 13
Code 13
The hinge pins can be removed and replaced to allow these hinges to function in both right and left hand application.
Code 13
Code 13
PAGE 228
IRON SURFACE HINGES
These hinges are sold individually unless otherwise noted.
These “HL” hinges are sold as a mirror pair, one for the top of the door, and one for the bottom. A third “H” hinge can be used in the middle if needed.
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
The large 7” hinges on this page are very heavy forgings and quite capable of supporting substantial doors. We supply them with large round headed wood screws that will be more than adequate in most situations.
Code 7
Sold as a pair
Black iron
PAGE 229
DECORATIVE SURFACE MOUNTED HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
These hinges as well as the Code 1 “H” hinges on the next page are hot forged from solid brass. The forging process results in a durable, long-wearing hinge not subject to breakage like the sand cast originals. In other respects it is nearly impossible to tell them apart.
L
Code 1
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 230
SURFACE MOUNTED “H” HINGES
These hinges are sold individually
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
This hinge matches handles on page 34.
PAGE 231
SURFACE MOUNTED “H” HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 4
Code 4
L
Code 4
These Code 4 hinges are lost wax castings taken directly off original hinges. They are not as strong as those shown on the last pages but their visual appeal is unique.
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 232
IRON SURFACE
MOUNTED HINGES
Our hinges are sold individually
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
The case mounted leaf of this hinge is the same as shown on the hinge to the left.
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
The hinges on this page are intended for flush mounted inset doors. The hinge on the left is strong enough for interior doors.
PAGE 233
SURFACE MOUNTED
STRAP HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
These decorative iron strap hinges are very strong and quite suitable for full scale doors. We supply round headed wood screws, but larger screws or bolts could be used to increase load bearing.
Code 7
Code 7
Strap length: 23”
Strap length: 23”
Black iron
Black iron
L
PRODUCT SIZE
Detail shown full
size.
Hinges shown at
reduced size over
a 1/4” grid.
PAGE 234
STRAP HINGES
These hinges are sold individually,
Code 7
Black iron
The hinges on this and the last page are intended for flush mounted inset doors. They can be used in architectural applications but the smaller size is best limited to lighter, plank style doors.
Code 7
Strap length:
16 1/2”
Black iron
PRODUCT SIZE
Hinges on left
and top shown
full size over a
1/4” grid pattern.
Hinge on right
shown at reduced
size over a 1/4”
Code 7
grid pattern.
Black iron
IRON STRAP HINGES
PAGE 235
These hinges are sold individually.
These strong forged iron strap hinges are suitable for carrying heavy doors and shutters. They are available with either surface mounted pintle, drive pintle for wood framing, or masonry type for new brick construction. We supply matching square headed lag bolts with these hinges.
Code 7
Black iron
Strap length: 12”
Surface pintle
Masonary pintle
Drive pintle
Strap length: 17”
Surface pintle
Masonary pintle
Drive pintle
(shown reduced scale)
Drive pintle
Strap length: 21”
Surface pintle
Masonary pintle
L
Drive pintle
Masonary pintle
(shown reduced scale)
PRODUCT SIZE
All products are shown
at a reduced scale
over a 1/4” grid pattern.
Surface pintle
(shown reduced scale)
PAGE 236
IRON STRAP HINGES
These hinges are sold individually
Code 13
Code 13
Strap length: 12 1/2”
Strap length: 16 1/2”
Tail length: 8”
Tail length: 11”
Code 13
Strap length: 9 1/2”
Tail length: 8”
These European strap hinges are suitable for cabinets and chests. While the material thickness and the rolled joint are more than adequate for those applications, they are not intended to support heavier loads. Many uses will require the hinge to be bent at 90 degrees somewhere along its length. This is easily done with the aid of a metalworking vise and hammer. The decorative leaf can show on the inside of a chest lid or door by simply punching out the hinge pin and reversing the upper leaf. The tails are parallel sided and their lengths are indicated.
PRODUCT SIZE
Detail shown full size.
Hinge shown at reduced
size over 1/4” grid pattern.
PAGE 237
IRON STRAP HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 13
Strap length: 9 1/2”
Strap length: 12 1/2”
The straps on this hinge are the same as those on 236HF62 & 236HF63
L
Code 13
Strap length: 14”
Tail length: 8”
PRODUCT SIZE
Detail shown
full size.
Hinge shown
at reduced size
over 1/4” grid
pattern
PAGE 238
IRON BUTT HINGES
These hinges are sold individually
Code 7
Black iron
Size: 2” x 1 1/2”
Code 7
Our strong cast iron butt hinges are hand finished and, though more accurately machined than most originals, still have authentic character. All three sizes are suitable for appropriate architectural application, the largest is a typical European size for doors.
Black iron
Size: 3” x 2”
Code 7
Black iron
Size: 4” x 2 3/8”
Code 26
Rusted iron
Size: 2” x 2”
Code 26
Rusted iron
Size: 2 7/16” x 2 1/2”
PAGE 239
PROJECTION HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
We supply these hinges with button tips. If a decorative tip (like the cone tip shown) is wanted, please see the notes on page 209 and select from those tips.
Code 11
Size:
3 1/2” x 4 1/2”
Size:
3 1/2” x 6”
Size:
4” x 4 1/2”
Size:
4” x 6”
Size:
5” x 6”
Size:
5” x 8”
These two hinges are American made and can be special ordered in polished chrome, polished nickel and satin nickel.
L
Code 11
Size:
2 1/2” x 3”
Size:
2 1/2” x 5”
Size:
2 1/2” x 4”
Size:
2 1/2” x 6”
PAGE 240
BALL BEARING AND SCREEN DOOR HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 11
This sprung hinge is entirely cast brass with a phospher bronze spring for a long, corrosion free life.
Code 11
Size: 4 1/2” x 4 1/2”
Size: 5” x 5”
Size: 6” x 6”
Ball bearings are an option on our architectural butt hinges. They are machined from thick gauge material and are suited to heavy doors with a high frequency of use such as entrance doors of office buildings, etc... We can special order these hinges in other finishes if needed. Decorative tips for our ball bearing hinges are shown on page 209.
PAGE 241
CONCEALED HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
L
Code 8
Code 8
These sophisticated hinges are precision machined from solid brass. Using the recommended three hinges per door, the hinge on the right can support up to 110 lb. while the hinge on the left can support up to 90 lb. Minimum door thickness is 1 3/8”.
The hinge on the left has enough throw for up to 9/16” of trimwork thickness.
Satin chrome
Satin chrome
PAGE 242
BACKFLAP DESK HINGES
These hinges are sold individually
Back flap hinges are typically used to hinge the writing surface of drop front desks. They can also be used anywhere a wide leaf is desirable for the additional support it can offer.
Code 2
Size: 2 5/8” x 1 3/4”
Code 2
Size: 3” x 2”
Unfinished brass
Unfinished brass
Code 2
Code 2
Size: 2 3/8” x 1 1/2”
Size: 1 7/8” x 1 1/4”
Unfinished brass
Unfinished brass
Code 2
This narrow desk hinge is useful for hinging writing desk lids or other box forms. The long leaf spreads stress along the box sides rather than concentrating them in the thickness of the box back.
Size: 4” x 1/2”
Unfinished brass

CENTER HINGES

Center hinges are designed for doors that swing about a center, rather than an edge. These hinges were popular in Europe on large knock-down casework. The doors are held in place between the pins of the hinges when the top of the case is fitted.

DROP LEAF RULE JOINT

While at first glance the rule joint seems simple, the realities of this joint can be frustratingly troublesome. A first attempt will often result in a joint that scrapes and binds, or leaves unsightly gaps. To get it right the first time requires both an understanding and application of the geometry at work. These days, the majority of us will cut the rule joint profiles with a router. Though this tool can quickly produce a very accurate pair of matching cuts, it can just as easily cut a good
looking, but unworkable joint. Because different hinges will require di erent settings for your router, hinge selection must be your starting point. A rule joint hinge is specially manufactured with an extra wide leaf to span the joint. Because it is screwed into the underside of the table with the barrel facing up, it is countersunk on the reverse side.
Start by opening the hinge and laying it barrel upward on a at surface. Accurately measure up from this surface to the center of the hinge pin. In the case of our standard drop leaf hinges, this measurement will be up to 1/8” (alternatively, and assuming the hinge is a traditional at back style, you can simply measure the hinge barrel and divide by two). When this hinge is mortised into the underside of the tabletop, the center of rotation of the table leaf will be 1/8” up from the bottom. Most tabletops are built of 3/4” thick material, and so it seems reasonable to select a 1/2” radius cutter for the joint. Many woodworkers cutting a rule joint for the first time will fail to take into account the center of rotation described above and will assume a 1/2” radius cutter will leave a 1/4” llet in 3/4” stock. If a 1/2” radius cutter is set correctly, with the center of its described circle raised 1/8” above the underside of the table, the llet will be 1/8”, not 1/4”. A 1/8” llet is a workable minimum because, while the llet is cut into the tabletop, the table leaf must match its pro le with perhaps 1/32” clearance. With a full 3/4” material thickness, a 3/32” edge will be left, which should be regarded as an absolute minimum. If the tabletop is thinner due to planing or sanding, then a 1/2” radius cutter will be too large and must be abandoned in favor of a 7/16” or smaller pair of bits. After having established the center of rotation as defined by the hinge choice and having selected the cutter, you can run the profile on the tabletop. If you are using a 1/2” radius cutter, you will need to set the base of your router to cut a llet of a thickness that is the result of the following formula:
Tabletop thickness (3/4”) minus 1/2 barrel diameter (1/8”) minus radius cutter (1/2”)
With this profile cut, you can run the mating pro le in the table leaf. Ideally you would select a cutter with a 1/32” larger radius to provide a little clearance at the joint. Such cutters are not generally available, so in order to create the needed clearance, you will separate the leaves by this much when installing the hinges. The hinges can now be mortised. The first cut will be in the tabletop and will accommodate the hinge barrel. is is best cut with a 1/4” straight cutter. The center of this cut should be a 1/64” outboard of a line drawn down from the vertical cut left by your radius cutter. With the tabletop upside down and with its leaf nesting in place, but separated by 1/32”, lay the hinge barrel in it’s mortise and with a sharp knife, scribe its outline. Finally, route a mortise to set the hinge flush with the table underside and screw into place. Make sure the table leaf remains rmly in place during this operation.
PAGE 243
DROP LEAF RULE JOINT AND CENTER HINGES
These hinges are sold individually.
Code 2
Unfinished
Code 1
brass
Sanded brass
Code 2
Unfinished brass
Code 2
Unfinished
brass
Code 2
Unfinished
brass
L
PAGE 244
COUNTER, CARD TABLE AND BUTLER TRAY HINGES
Code 2
Code 8
Code 8
Code 2
Sanded brass
Sanded brass
Code 2
The link joint incorporated into all these hinges, with the exception of the butler tray hinge, allow a hinged counter top or the leaves of a card table to open or close face to face while eliminating the obstruction of a raised hinge barrel when in use. Even though they may appear an ideal solution for hinging the writing surface of drop front desks, none of these can be used satisfactorily in this application. Traditionally, a regular back flap hinge like those on page 242 was used, but if it is unacceptable to have the hinge barrel above the writing plane, it is possible to use a drop leaf hinge as shown in the accompanying drawing. This solution will leave a gap along the hinge line when closed, which may or may not be acceptable. The butterfly shaped 244H36 is a characteristic feature set into the bar tops of countless English pubs and is extremely strong. Both the side mounted and face mounted card table hinges perform this
function on a more delicate scale. The 244H288 is used on tables with two gaming surfaces.
Polished brass 244H36P
Sanded brass
Code 1
Code 1
Sanded brass
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 245
KNIFE HINGES
These knife hinges are sold by the pair.

OFFSET AND STRAIGHT KNIFE HINGES

“Brusso” knife hinges provide an unobtrusive and refined way to hinge inset and overlay doors. Fitting is as shown in the illustrations and as long as the mortises are cut accurately before the casework is assembled, the installation should go smoothly. Because very little adjustment is possible with this style of hinge, it is vital that you be precise in your marking and cutting. To provide the opportunity for a small amount of adjustment, it is worth cutting the door mortise a hair short and at first install the hinges with only one screw per door leaf. If the door is found to be a little out of square with the case when fitted, one or other mortise can be lengthened slightly. These hinges are not handed and there is no difference between the upper
and lower door hinge. They are solid brass and finished in a fine satin with no protective coating.
Code 14
Thickness:
7/16”
Code 14
Thickness:
Code 14
5/16”
Thickness:
5/16”
C
Code 14
Thickness: 5/16”
Code 14
Code 14
Thickness: 5/16”
Thickness:
7/16”
Our double acting screen hinges are a good deal thicker and more precise than the hardware store products. The stainless steel version is particularly strong. The maximum panel thickness that each size can accommodate can be measured off the photograph and is equal to the width of the flat between the barrel notching.
PAGE 246
DOUBLE ACTING SCREEN HINGES
These hinges are sold individually
Code 2
Code 2
Dull brass
Dull brass
Code 2
Code 2
Dull brass
Dull brass
Code 2
Satin stainless steel
Code 2
Satin stainless steel
Code 2
Satin stainless steel

STOP HINGES

The three Brusso stop hinges shown above are a butt hinge with a square barrel. Where the knuckles of a conventional butt hinge rotate past each other without interference, these square knuckles bind against each other at about 100 degrees. With their square barrel, it might appear that these hinges are intended to be fitted flush with the back of the box. This is not the case and they must project to at least the point where half the hinge pin is exposed.

QUADRANT HINGES

It helps to remember that a quadrant hinge is simply a butt hinge with an integral lid stay. The same rules that apply to installing a butt hinge apply also to the quadrant hinge. The leaf width of the Brusso quadrant hinges are common straight cutter diameters, and the first step will be to determine and set the depth of your cuts with this simple calculation: the desired gap between the box and lid subtracted from the barrel diameter, the result halved. The next step will be to measure the box side thickness and set the fence on your router to accurately run a cut up the center of this thickness. This setting will be used to make a mortise for the forward leg of the hinges on the upper edges of the box and the lower edge of the lid. The forward limit of this cut is measured o the hinge and allows half the hinge barrel to project out of the back of the box. This can either be marked or if many hinges are being installed, you could add a stop to the fence.
After all four of these cuts are made, you can reset the fence to make a short cut at point B. (see illustration). The fence will still be set against the side of the box, and this cut will only be long enough to de ne the length of the third cut. The third setting will connect the other two, and in this case, the fence will be set against the back of the box. The last cut will create a pocket for the quadrant in both the lid and the box. If your lid is thick enough, you can provide equal depth in both lid and box, otherwise, mortise
deeper into the box than the lid. As with the first cut, you will set the fence to cut along the center of the box side. A smaller router bit will be used for this cut (approx. 3/16”). As this is a deep cut, you may want to make a series of passes. Because this cut will be covered by the hinge, you should be able to freehand its length, but be aware that if it is longer than need be, you will lose crucial wood in front of the forward-most screw. The hinges should screw into place and operate without binding. Any problems that are encountered will almost always relate to the size of the stay pocket, which may need trimming.
BOX HINGES
PAGE 247
Box hinges are sold by the pair except where noted.
Code 5
Dull brass
(Sold each)
Code 14
Code 14
Satin brass
Satin brass
Code 4
(Sold each)
Code 5
Dull brass
(Sold each)
Code 14
Code 14
Code 14
Code 14
Satin brass
Satin brass
Satin brass
Satin brass
L
Code 14
Satin brass
Code 4
Antiqued
brass
(Sold each)
The solid brass casters on the following pages are of the highest quality available and are ideal for period furniture reproduction and restoration. Traditionally, the primary use of casters was to allow for easy movement of unweighted furniture. Increasing the height of the furniture and aesthetics were of secondary concern but still an important consideration. The furniture dictated the kind of caster used; toe and cup casters were common on dining tables, couches, and settees and screw plates caster on small tables and chairs.

CODE 1 CASTERS

All of our Code 1 casters are English made and solid brass. Due to advances in material and manufacturing, they are substantially stronger than the period originals. We are often asked for a load bearing rating on these casters. Any of our casters could bear loads far greater than they are ever likely to encounter. More important than load rating is mobility. A small caster under a heavy load is more likely to make an indent in the oor than be an aid to mobility. Let a sense of proportion be your guide to caster selection. Strength is an issue whenever casters are used, but with our casters the weak point is no longer the caster itself, but the wood to which it is fitted. If the wood is to survive its ordeal, the caster must be fitted accurately. This means fitting with as little play as possible. The purpose of the woodscrews is to prevent the caster sliding off rather than to make an otherwise poorly fitted caster rm. An ill-fitted caster relies on the woodscrew for loadbearing and they will quickly fail by either coming loose, or worse, splitting the wood.

CODE 4 CASTERS

Our English Code 4 casters look as though they were stolen from fine antiques. Though they are new, they are no stronger than the originals from which they are reproduced, and certainly not as strong as our Code 1 casters. Their appeal lies in a delicacy of detail and proportion that modern casters cannot match.
We stock our casters in both polished and antiqued brass, but have supplied them in various plated finishes to special order. If you need another finish, please call our customer service department.
PAGE 248
A NOTE ON CASTERS
Code 1 Antiqued Brass
Code 1 Antiqued Brass
Code 4
Code 4
Code 1 Polished Brass
PLATE CASTERS
PAGE 249
Casters sold individually.
Code 1
Wheel dia: 1”
Code 1
Rise: 1 1/2”
Code 1
Wheel dia: 1 1/4”
Code 1
Polished
Wheel dia: 1 1/2”
Rise: 1 5/8”
Wheel dia: 3/4”
Rise: 2”
Polished
Rise: 1 3/8”
Antiqued
Polished
Polished
Antiqued
Antiqued
Antiqued
Code 1
Wheel dia: 3/4”
Rise: 1 3/8”
Code 1
Polished
Code 1
Code 1
Wheel dia: 1 1/4”
Wheel dia: 1”
Wheel dia: 1 1/2”
Rise: 1 5/8”
Antiqued
Rise: 1 1/2”
Rise: 2”
Polished
Polished
Polished
Antiqued
Antiqued
Antiqued
Code 1
Hard rubber wheel
Dia: 2 1/2”
Rise: 2 5/8”
Polished
M
Antiqued
Code 1
Code 1
Wheel dia: 7/8”
Wheel dia: 3/4”
Rise: 1”
Rise: 7/8”
Polished
Polished
Antiqued
Antiqued
PAGE 250
SQUARE CUP CASTERS
Casters sold individually.
Code 1
Inside
Code 1
dimension
Inside
Top: 1 1/2”
dimension
Bottom: 1 1/8”
Top: 1 3/8”
Rise: 1 3/4”
Bottom: 1”
Polished
Rise: 1 3/4”
Antiqued
Polished
Antiqued
Code 1
Inside
Code 1
dimension
Code 1
Inside
Top: 1 1/4”
Inside
dimension
Bottom: 7/8”
dimension
Top: 1”
Rise: 1 7/16”
Top: 1 1/8”
Bottom: 5/8”
Polished
Bottom: 3/4”
Rise: 1 5/16”
Antiqued
Rise: 1 7/16”
Polished
Polished
Antiqued
Antiqued
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Inside
Inside
Inside
dimension
dimension
dimension
Top: 5/8”
Top: 7/8”
Top: 3/4”
Bottom: 3/8”
Bottom: 1/2”
Bottom: 1/2”
Rise: 1”
Rise: 1 1/8”
Rise: 1 1/8”
Polished
Polished
Polished
Antiqued
Antiqued
Antiqued
PAGE 251
SQUARE CUP CASTERS
Casters sold individually.
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dimension
Inside dimension
Inside dimension
Inside dimension
Top: 3/4”
Top: 7/8”
Top: 15/16”
Top: 1 1/16”
Bottom: 5/8”
Bottom: 13/16”
Bottom: 3/4”
Bottom: 15/16”
Rise: 1”
Rise: 1 1/8”
Rise: 1”
Rise: 1 3/16”
M
Code 4
Inside dimension
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Top: 1/2”
Inside dimension
Inside dimension
Inside dimension
Bottom: 7/16”
Top: 1”
Top: 1/2”
Top: 5/8”
Rise: 1”
Bottom: 3/4”
Bottom: 3/8”
Bottom: 1/2”
Rise: 1 5/16”
Rise: 1”
Rise: 1 1/2”
PAGE 252
ROUND CUP CASTERS
Casters sold individually.
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dia
Inside dia
Code 1
Top: 1 1/4”
Top: 1 3/8”
Inside dia
Bottom: 1”
Bottom: 1 1/8”
Top: 1 1/2”
Rise: 1 1/2”
Rise: 1 3/4”
Bottom: 1 1/4”
Polished
Polished
Rise: 1 3/4”
Antiqued
Antiqued
Polished
Antiqued
All our Code 1 casters are English made and solid brass. Due to advances in material and manufacturing, they are substantially stronger than the period originals. We are often asked for a load bearing rating on these casters. is rating would be expected of a modern caster, but it is not relevant to period casters. Any of our casters could bear loads far greater than they are ever likely to encounter. More important than load rating is mobility. A small caster under a heavy load is more likely to make an indent in the oor than be an aid to mobility. Let a sense of proportion be your guide to caster selection. Strength is an issue whenever casters are used, but with our casters the weak
point is no longer the caster itself, but the wood to which its fitted. If the wood is to survive its ordeal, the caster must be fitted accurately. This means fitting with as little play as possible. The purpose of the woodscrews is to prevent the caster sliding off rather than to make an otherwise poorly fitted caster firm. An ill-fitted castor relies on the woodscrew for loadbearing and they will quickly fail by either coming loose, or worse, splitting the wood.
Code 1
Inside dia
Code 1
Top: 1 1/8”
Inside dia
Bottom: 7/8”
Top: 1”
Rise: 1 1/2”
Bottom: 3/4”
Polished
Rise: 1 5/16”
Antiqued
Polished
Antiqued
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dia
Inside dia
Code 1
Top: 7/8”
Top: 3/4”
Inside dia
Bottom: 5/8”
Bottom: 9/16”
Top: 5/8”
Rise: 1 1/8”
Rise: 1 1/8”
Bottom: 1/2”
Polished
Polished
Rise: 1”
Antiqued
Antiqued
Polished
Antiqued
PAGE 253
ROUND CUP CASTERS
Casters sold individually.
Code 4
Code 4
Inside dia.
Inside dia.
Top: 1 3/8”
Top: 1 1/4”
Bottom: 1 1/8”
Bottom: 1 1/16”
Rise: 1 9/16”
Rise: 1 1/2”
Our English Code 4 castors look as though they were taken from fine antiques. Though they are new, they are no stronger than the originals from which they are reproduced, and certainly not as strong as our Code 1 casters. Their appeal lies in a delicacy of detail and proportion that modern casters cannot match.
Code 4
Inside dia.
Top: 1 1/4”
Bottom: 1 1/8”
Rise: 1 7/8”
M
Code 4
Inside dia.
Top: 7/8”
Bottom: 5/8”
Code 4
Rise: 1 3/16”
Inside dia.
Top: 25/32”
Code 4
Bottom: 9/16”
Inside dia.
Rise: 1”
Top: 3/4”
Bottom: 1/2”
Rise: 3/4”
PAGE 254
SQUARE TOE CASTERS
Casters sold individually.
We stock our casters in both polished and antiqued brass, but have supplied them in various plated finishes to special order. If you need another finish, please call our customer service department.
Code 1
Code 1
Aperture: 3/4” sq.
Aperture: 1 1/2” sq.
Exterior: 1 1/8” sq.
Exterior: 1 7/8” sq.
Rise: 1”
Rise: 1 3/4”
Code 1
Code 1
Aperture: 1” sq.
Aperture: 1 3/8” sq.
Exterior: 1 3/8” sq.
Exterior: 1 3/4” sq.
Rise: 1 3/16”
Rise: 1 5/8”
Code 1
Aperture: 1 1/8” sq.
Exterior: 1 1/2” sq.
Code 1
Rise: 1 5/16”
Aperture: 1 1/4” sq.
Exterior: 1 5/8” sq.
Rise: 1 3/8”
PAGE 255
MISCELLANEOUS TOE CASTERS
Casters sold individually.
Code 1
Aperture: 1 1/4” sq
Exterior: 1 1/2” sq
Rise: 1 1/2”
Code 4
Aperture:
1 7/8” sq
Code 1
Aperture: 1 1/8” W x 1” H
Exterior:
2 1/4” W x 2” H
Exterior:
1 1/2” W x 1 1/4” H
Rise: 2 1/8”
Rise: 1 1/2”
M
Code 4
Aperture: 1 1/4” W x 3/8” H
Code 4
Exterior:
1 1/2” W x 1 5/8” H
Aperture: 1 1/4” sq
Rise: 1 3/8”
Exterior:
1 1/2” W x 1 3/8” H
Rise: 1 1/2”
PAGE 256
CLAW FOOT CASTERS
Casters are sold individually.
Code 1
Aperture: 1 1/2” sq.
Exterior: 2” W x 1 3/4” H
Code 1
Rise: 1 3/4”
Aperture: 1 3/8” sq.
Exterior: 1 7/8” W x 1 3/4” H
Rise: 1 3/8”
Code 1
Aperture: 1 1/8” sq.
Exterior: 2 3/8” sq.
Rise: 1 3/8”
Code 1
Aperture: 1” sq.
Exterior: 1 1/4” sq.
Rise: 1 1/4”
Code 1
Aperture: 3/4” sq.
Exterior: 1” sq.
Rise: 1”
PAGE 257
TOE CAPS AND CASTER RINGS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dia:
Inside dia:
Inside dia:
Top: 1 1/2”
Top: 1 3/8”
Top: 1 1/4”
Bottom: 1 1/4”
Bottom: 1 1/8”
Bottom: 1”
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dia:
Inside dia:
Inside dia:
Top: 1 1/8”
Top: 1”
Top: 7/8”
Bottom: 7/8”
Bottom: 3/4”
Code 2
Bottom: 5/8”
Inside dia: 1/2”
Unfinished brass
The caster rims below can be partnered with the screw plate casters on page 249. They serve to reinforce the leg at the point where it is under the greatest stress. The caster rim of a given internal diameter will fit a caster of the same diameter.
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dia:
Inside dia:
Top: 3/4”
Top: 5/8”
Bottom: 9/16”
Bottom: 1/2”
N
Code 1 Inside dia: 1 1/2”
Code 1 Inside dia: 1 3/8”
Code 1 Inside dia: 1 1/4”
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dia: 1 1/8”
Inside dia: 1”
Inside dia: 7/8”
Inside dia: 3/4”
PAGE 258
TOE CAPS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dimension:
Inside dimension:
Inside dimension:
Top: 1 1/4”
Top: 1 1/2”
Top: 1 3/8”
Bottom: 7/8”
Bottom: 1 1/8”
Bottom: 1”
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dimension:
Inside dimension:
Code 1
Inside dimension:
Code 1
Top: 3/4”
Top: 5/8”
Inside dimension:
Top: 7/8”
Inside dimension:
Bottom: 1/2”
Bottom: 3/8”
Top: 1”
Bottom: 1/2”
Top: 1 1/8”
Bottom: 5/8”
Bottom: 3/4”
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Inside dimension:
Inside dimension:
Inside dimension:
Inside dimension:
Top: 7/8”
Top: 3/4”
Top: 15/16”
Top: 1 1/16”
Bottom: 3/4”
Bottom: 5/8”
Bottom: 13/16”
Bottom: 15/16”
PAGE 259
TOE CAPS AND CASTER RIMS
Code 4
Inside dimension:
5/8” sq
Code 4
Inside dia: 7/8”
Code 4
Inside dimension:
15/16” sq
N
Code 4
Inside dia: 1 1/4”
Code 4
Code 4
Leg dia: 1”
Leg dia: 1 1/16”
Caster size: 7/8”
Caster size: 1”
PAGE 260
TOE CAPS AND SHOES
Code 4
Inside dia: 1”
Code 4
Inside dia: 1 7/8”
Code 4
Code 4
Width of mounting surface:
Inside dia: 1 1/4”
2” tapering to 1 1/4”
Code 4
Inside width: 1 7/8”
PAGE 261
TOE CAPS AND FEET
Code 1
Inside dimension:
Code 1
1” W x 3/4” H
Inside dimension:
1 1/4” W x 1 1/8” H
Code 4
Code 5
Code 5
Rise: 9/16”
Rise: 11/16”
Code 5
Rise: 1”
N
Code 5
Rise: 7/16”
Code 5
Rise: 13/16”
Code 5
Rise: 1/2”
PAGE 262
FEET
Leg ornaments to match these feet on are available on page 290.
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 5/8”
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 5/8”
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 263
CAPITALS AND MOUNTS
Code 4
Aperture: 2 1/8”
Code 4
Aperture: 2 1/2”
Code 4
Thickness: 1/2”
Code 4
Aperture: 1 7/16”
Full Capital
Half Capital (shown)
N
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 1 3/4”
Code 1
Aperture: 1”
The brass alloy from which these items are cast is fairly soft and on the thinner items will allow for some adjustment.
PAGE 264
CAPITALS AND MOUNTS
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 1”
Aperture: 1 1/16”
Code 4
Aperture: 1 5/8”
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 2”
Aperture: 2 5/16”
PAGE 265
CAPITALS AND MOUNTS
The brass alloy from which these items are cast is fairly soft and on thinner items, will allow for some adjustment.
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 1 7/8”
Aperture: 1 13/16”
N
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 2”
Aperture: 2”
PAGE 266
CLOCK MOUNTS
266MBY10 and 266MBY11 are faced off at the rear to set at against the vertical.
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 1 1/16”
Aperture: 15/16”
Aperture: 7/8”
Aperture: 13/16”
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Aperture: 11/16”
Aperture: 5/8”
Aperture: 13/16”
Aperture: 3/4”
Code 4
Code 4
Code 1
Code 1
Aperture: 9/16”
Aperture: 1/2”
Aperture: 1”
Aperture: 7/8”
PAGE 267
CLOCK MOUNTS
Code 4
Code 4
Base: 1 7/16”
Base: 1 3/8”
These mounts are authentic tall case clock fittings. We have clockcase hinges on page 216 and suitable finials on pages 268 and 269.
Code 4
Base: 1 3/8”
N
Code 4
Code 4
Base: 1 3/8”
Base: 1 3/8”
PAGE 268
FINIALS
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 269
FINIALS AND MISCELLANEOUS
Poker handle
Code 4
Poker handle
Decoy
Grasshopper
Code 4
Code 4
antenna
Code 4
O
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 270
FINIALS
Code 5
Code 5
Code 5
Code 5
Code 5
Our ball finials are tapped with a 10 mm metric thread.
Code 5
Code 5
Code 5
PAGE 271
BALL FINIALS
Code 13
Code 13
Bore 2”
Bore 2 3/4”
O
Code 13
Bore 4”
Code 13
Bore 3”
Code 13
Bore 2 1/4”
PAGE 272
BED BOLT COVERS
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 273
BED BOLT COVERS
Code 4
Code 1
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
P
Code 4
PAGE 274
BED HARDWARE
Bed fasteners
Sold as set of four pairs
Cast iron
5 1/2”
The fasteners and irons on this page are not supplied with screws. In all cases, the longest screw possible should be used. The fastener 274BF3 should only be used if your bed rails are at least 1” thick.
The zinc plated fasteners 274BF4 and 274BF5 are strong and can be used for hanging cabinetry and heavy frames. They do not have a wedging fit, so if you intend to use them as bed rail fasteners, they will need to be accurately fitted.
Bed bolts provide the most reliable long term means of bed assembly.
Bed wrench
Bronze
Will fit most antique and modern bed bolts.
Bed iron
Bed fasteners
Sold individually
Sold as single pair
Steel
Zinc plated steel
4” x 4” x 1 1/4”
Double
Single
Bed bolts
Sold individually
16TPI
Black steel
6”
7”
PAGE 275
BRACKETS
Code 7
Sold by the pair
Black iron
4” x 5/8”
6” x 5/8”
8” x 5/8”
Code 8
Sold individually
3 1/4” x 3/4”
2 3/8” x 1 1/16”
1 3/4” x 5/8”
1 3/8” x 9/16”
Q
Code 1
3” Projection (shown above)
3 1/2” Projection
PAGE 276
RAIL BRACKETS
The usual plated finishes available to order. Please call customer service.
Code 1
Left end bracket
1 1/4” Dia x 2” Projection
1 1/2” Dia x 2 1/4” Projection
Code 1
Right end bracket
1 1/4” Dia x 2” Projection
1 1/2” Dia x 2 1/4” Projection (shown)
Code 1
Center bracket
Code 1
1 1/4” Dia x 2” Projection
End socket
1 1/4” Dia
1 1/2” Dia x 2 1/4” Projection
1 1/2” Dia
PAGE 277
CORNERS
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
2 3/4” x 1 3/4”
Both pieces
Code 4
Code 4
1 1/4” x 3/8”
Code 4
Both pieces
Code 1
2 1/2” x 3/4”
2 ” x 5/8”
Code 4
2 1/2” x 3/4”
2 1/8” x 3/8”
2 ” x 5/8”
Q
Code 1
These corners and straps are pressed from sheet brass and do not have enough thickness to allow flush sanding.
2 1/2” x 3/4”
2 1/2” x 3/4”
2 ” x 5/8”
2 ” x 5/8”
PAGE 280
HOOKS
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
PAGE 281
HOOKS
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Q
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
PAGE 282
HOOKS
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
This swivelling ceiling hook can hang lighting or other chain-suspended objects. The user must make a judgement as to its load bearing capacity.
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
8”
12”
PAGE 283
HOOKS
Code 7
Black iron
2”
3”
4”
6”
Code 1
3”
4”
6”
Code 4
Antiqued
brass
Code 4
Antiqued
Code 4
brass
Antiqued
brass
Code 4
Code 4
Q
Code 4
Code 4
Antiqued
Code 4
brass
Antiqued
Code 4
brass
PAGE 284
ROPE RINGS
Our rings are solid cast brass and hand finishd for a smooth finish that won’t snag or damage rope. Though they are very strong we do not know their load bearing capacity and expect the user to judge their suitability.
Code 1
Code 1
Code 1
This ring will rotate on its base.
The three rings on this side of the page are solidly mounted to their bases.
This ring unscrews from its base.
Code 1
Code 1
PAGE 285
DOOR STOPS
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 1
P
Code 1
PAGE 286
KEY BLANKS
Code 4
Code 13
Brass
Iron
Code 13
Code 4
Iron
Brass
Code 13
Code 4
Iron
Brass
Code 11
Code 13
Brass
Iron
Code 1
Code 13
Brass
Iron
Code 13
Iron
Code 1
Brass
Code 13
Iron
Code 13
Iron
Code 13
Iron
PAGE 287
FASTENERS
All fasterners on this page are sold individually
End view
Code 7
Grey iron Code 7
Grey iron
Code 7
Code 7
Black iron
Grey iron
Code 7
Grey iron
Code 7
Code 7
Grey iron
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
End view
End view
Code 7
Code 7
Code 7
Code 7
Code 7
Grey iron
Grey iron
Black iron
Black iron
Black iron
Code 13
Grey iron
S
Code 4
Code 4
Nut tree
Nail tree
PAGE 288
SCALPELS
Our surgical scalpels have proven their value to thousands of our customers over the years. The blades are much sharper than any alternative you might be accustomed to using. The choice of handle is a matter of personal preference, but most users end up with all sizes. The smaller handle and blades are clearly suitable for ner work, while the larger can withstand more robust use. The straight blades are most useful for carving while the curved blades are better for cutting against a straight edge. All of them will put the sharpest imaginable point on a pencil.
Zinc
Nickel
Nickel
Pack of 5 blades
Pack of 5 blades
Carbon steel
Carbon steel
Nickel
Pack of 5 blades
Pack of 5 blades
Carbon steel
Carbon steel
PAGE 289
DESK LEATHERS
A
T
B
V
VC1
VC2
W
C
Z
D
VC5
VC6
3
E
5
F
6
VC3
VC4
7
G
8
H
9
J
VC7
VC8
K
10
11
L
M
12
N
P
Our desk leathers are sheep hide and 1mm thick. This firm leather provides an excellent writing surface. Sheep hides are obviously not going to be big enough for all desk surfaces, so the maker joins pieces as necessary. Their skill in this work ensures that the result is always appropriate. A blind tooling (as shown between the color samples above) is run along each join and, if you choose, around the entire panel at the extreme of the specified panel size. To order these leathers, you will need to fax or mail us four pieces of information:
1) Exact final size.
2) Color code (for black use Color code VC9).
3) Tooling code (if required).
4) Would you like blind tooling around the panel at its final size?

EXAMPLE

If you need a black leather surface to replace a damaged original panel that was 20 1/2” x 34” and want the K tooling pattern with a blind tooling around the extreme edge, you would order:
20 1/2” x 34”, BL, K, Yes.
The leather will come to you with about 1/2” of excess. Any tooling will be placed according to the bestjudgement of the maker in relation to the overall size you specify. Instructions for fitting are included with each purchase. Pricing is by, and to the next larger, 4” square and includes tooling. Orders for desk leathers are non-returnable unless we deviate from your order and can only be placed by fax or mail.
S
S

PRODUCT SIZE

tooling shown full size.
PAGE 290
LEG ORNAMENTS
Feet are available to match these ornaments on page 262.
Code 4
Antiqued
This 15” long ornament tapers down to a 3/16” width.
Code 4
Antiqued
Code 4
Antiqued
PAGE 291
DECORATION
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
S
Code 4
Code 4
Code 4
PAGE 292
DOOR KNOCKER
Code 31
PAGE 293
DOOR KNOCKER
Code 31
S
PAGE 294
DOOR KNOCKERS
Code 1
Black iron
Code 31
Code 1
PAGE 295
DOOR KNOCKERS
Code 31
Code 7
Black iron
Code 7
Black iron
S
PAGE 296
DOOR KNOCKERS
Code 26
Rusted iron
Code 26
Rusted iron
SPEAKEASY GRILLS
PAGE 297
Code 26
PRODUCT SIZE
Rusted iron
Details to the right and bottom
of this page are shown full
Code 7
size over a 1/4” grid pattern.
Black iron
PAGE 298
LETTERS & NUMBERS
Code 13
Code 13
1
A
J
S
2
B
K
T
3
C
L
U
4
D
M
V
5
E
N
W
6
F
O
X
7
G
P
Y
8
H
Q
Z
9
I
R
0
LION CASEMENT CATCH
PAGE 299
Code 4
Antiqued Brass